tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76034482244864402612023-11-16T06:58:00.724-05:00Rivings And ShavingsMusings, random thoughts, and shared discoveries from the shop.Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-25402322219091213742015-08-30T17:08:00.000-04:002015-08-30T17:10:00.967-04:00Whew, Just In Time!I am happy to report that I have finished my chair just before the end of the month. It has been quite difficult to find the time to bring the chair to fruition. Since February, I have had my hands full rehabbing my daughter's 1920's Craftsman Bungalow. To be honest, when I would arrive home at the end of the day there was not much left in the energy department.<br />
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Allow me to apologize for this will be a post a bit longer than usual. When I last posted the upper portion of the chair was yet to be finished. I glued on hand blocks and shaped the handholds. Then I determined where to bore for the arm stumps. I bored the holes and then reamed the arm to fit to the arm stumps.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi87Sby34XWetx1c2gboIJ3QfrsuTuMbohf-HohlY8OFlDV_w9c-j3RMTZ8dSFAnme3LSJB5VHTGgJPTwpfZe-6bDhvC0JXcmPJ_2o-3qvwg0kmaJGc4CAHM9r5ypzWTAavtcsNsN0_WJYF/s1600/IMG_0501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi87Sby34XWetx1c2gboIJ3QfrsuTuMbohf-HohlY8OFlDV_w9c-j3RMTZ8dSFAnme3LSJB5VHTGgJPTwpfZe-6bDhvC0JXcmPJ_2o-3qvwg0kmaJGc4CAHM9r5ypzWTAavtcsNsN0_WJYF/s640/IMG_0501.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand blocks and arm were jointed then glued together.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOhSL6T9ecVCBoKVxBkf4aPWtQOCVEC8qOSfB3KpsR6gsVaRgO5pEUsNPWWqJ_EM99cPNNhMfa6eDkxaqanZaj5CoLg2sx9PFscjsgMqzyfufht9HZd1JvtoxzqHs7EsMNeEEFk29G0XPP/s1600/IMG_0512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOhSL6T9ecVCBoKVxBkf4aPWtQOCVEC8qOSfB3KpsR6gsVaRgO5pEUsNPWWqJ_EM99cPNNhMfa6eDkxaqanZaj5CoLg2sx9PFscjsgMqzyfufht9HZd1JvtoxzqHs7EsMNeEEFk29G0XPP/s640/IMG_0512.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Based on measurements from the chair I determined where the arm stump holes were to be bored. That combined with the sightline gave the exact location.</td></tr>
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After reaming the stump holes comes the all important task of fitting the arm to the chair. The arm must lay just right for the remaining parts to fall into place. First I ream one hole and place the arm on the stump and rotate the arm toward the other arm stump. As you can see in the picture below the arm is too high so my reaming needs to be adjusted to lower the arm. Once I have the right side (as seen from the sitting position) reamed correctly, I repeat the process for the left arm stump hole. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivrleatXOifSQ2pAmNnLP_0cs2OWAZAEC-j7385KhGuzTlGIaLw1ruyR7VdcHQ6d8cV90hyW4Auv_nYTUYbCx7bEwoxmNdEgXICCmJDBFQV-8yZht8y82dufRR2weNN7xDWf6Io4FDTufi/s1600/IMG_0513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivrleatXOifSQ2pAmNnLP_0cs2OWAZAEC-j7385KhGuzTlGIaLw1ruyR7VdcHQ6d8cV90hyW4Auv_nYTUYbCx7bEwoxmNdEgXICCmJDBFQV-8yZht8y82dufRR2weNN7xDWf6Io4FDTufi/s640/IMG_0513.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arm is in need of more reaming.</td></tr>
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The next step is to ensure that the arm lays in a level plane as seen from the front and has the appropriate amount of slope as seen from the side.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmHl_ykqpQNWNxdzTWG6bs2gNZ4JOmOkogKEYdAfu2wsJzAwv3Vk3uO_Omx9mzF5PT0VUvUNre6hOAAV-1o74TK2YHxXke54Xkat-KLHT2oxiaePBOiVEXi0WOXyTvjBx0PNKnpu4BYEO/s1600/IMG_0515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmHl_ykqpQNWNxdzTWG6bs2gNZ4JOmOkogKEYdAfu2wsJzAwv3Vk3uO_Omx9mzF5PT0VUvUNre6hOAAV-1o74TK2YHxXke54Xkat-KLHT2oxiaePBOiVEXi0WOXyTvjBx0PNKnpu4BYEO/s640/IMG_0515.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The arm sits level as seen from the front.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0XMgM_rkmr9hf6ctiAVNyrShphWqRO7vFLLDj9N7FHkj2WWN28-mmyvlaytlpjQopQ8001flLhA2GBKXz37seoWZuiddwVXMz93rYfrYl1K7bo0OT2AkjX9jE7WvVVw5TXnl6xKBh_3vg/s1600/IMG_0514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0XMgM_rkmr9hf6ctiAVNyrShphWqRO7vFLLDj9N7FHkj2WWN28-mmyvlaytlpjQopQ8001flLhA2GBKXz37seoWZuiddwVXMz93rYfrYl1K7bo0OT2AkjX9jE7WvVVw5TXnl6xKBh_3vg/s640/IMG_0514.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The arm has a nice slope to the back.</td></tr>
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Now that this very important step is accomplished it was time to drill and fit spindle to the arm. The way I do this may be a bit unorthodox but it seems to work for me. I drill the 1/2" center spindle hole in the seat at a 16 degree angle along the sightline that splits the seat at the pommel. I then insert a 1/2" support dowel to hold the arm in place. Sorry I should have taken photos, I know.<br />
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Next I lay out the arm holes. I favor the back side of the arm so that when the holes are bored they will not come out the front edge of the 3/4" thick arm. I then bore the 7/16" holes in the arm using a combination of the spindle holes played out on the spindle deck and the sight lines that are transferred to the seat. <br />
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First I bore the short spindle holes in the arm and then using those holes as a sighting guide I drill the spindle deck. I accomplish this by inserting a long 1/2" bit up through the arm hole and then center the bit on the corresponding hole marked on the spindle deck and drill it 1 1/8" deep. I do this with the four short spindles and then fit each spindle. I then mark the spindle so that it will be returned to the hole it was fitted to.<br />
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Next I remove the support dowel and bore the center spindle hole. I reinsert the support dowel and bore the remaining holes. I then follow the same procedure used for the short spindles on the long spindles. With the long spindles the holes in the arm are tapered very slightly during the fitting process. This ensures that the arm will register in a level attitude during the glue up.<br />
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After all the arm <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsOvKveLqZ8xeYy5Dcec4GQNwGTGxLb1jRtxtgrwWlCCrN3HU6RjLNxAfw2wx0l8t0PCG0ULciCN-B-eNt2lpIvChE4EXPG1lZpm_kfi1Iwq_HQcc2d1URQ1sdqbH_fpPiz0arZjN4x0Yt/s1600/IMG_0518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsOvKveLqZ8xeYy5Dcec4GQNwGTGxLb1jRtxtgrwWlCCrN3HU6RjLNxAfw2wx0l8t0PCG0ULciCN-B-eNt2lpIvChE4EXPG1lZpm_kfi1Iwq_HQcc2d1URQ1sdqbH_fpPiz0arZjN4x0Yt/s640/IMG_0518.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arm and spindle deck after being bored.</td></tr>
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Next is the fitting of the bow. The point at which the bow joins the arm is a steep 41 degree angle. It is a bit of a trick to get the appropriate angle and not blow out the bottom of the arm and or scar the first short spindle. So to ensure this does not happen I clamp the arm to a sacrificial block onto of my bench and drill the holes. I then use a small reamer and ream the holes to accept the bow. I fit the bow into the arm pinning it between the center spindle and the other long spindles. At this point I check for how the bow sits.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV0WEwyhiCgkE9msYUr6BUamegLo3LVtnrmuVQlNQLm48XgNx9odl7OAUdIXNMT1xx3c-W-5IfbW9FCCPo764RFYSRuYrbcrbyHmGmVAfnwXDd2fxLmfU94If7FiT-wCkuwIdCkI4KeD9z/s1600/IMG_0519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV0WEwyhiCgkE9msYUr6BUamegLo3LVtnrmuVQlNQLm48XgNx9odl7OAUdIXNMT1xx3c-W-5IfbW9FCCPo764RFYSRuYrbcrbyHmGmVAfnwXDd2fxLmfU94If7FiT-wCkuwIdCkI4KeD9z/s640/IMG_0519.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before boring the arm for the bow I check it against a bevel square at 41 degrees. If everything looks good I move forward.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUENUZuyS4hFDikuwZoR8PzKNNd0DB5Pypbgbuw6zog8YFVormYZM8X_wOgkmEe8r4ehbAhHEvMTnfO2SH1zZ0gyUrCUySqx3Z3p17BxJZGSke14GX1eKLHkhD16apgsyGMWLww7QRt5cy/s1600/IMG_0520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUENUZuyS4hFDikuwZoR8PzKNNd0DB5Pypbgbuw6zog8YFVormYZM8X_wOgkmEe8r4ehbAhHEvMTnfO2SH1zZ0gyUrCUySqx3Z3p17BxJZGSke14GX1eKLHkhD16apgsyGMWLww7QRt5cy/s640/IMG_0520.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bow sitting in place after being fit into the arm. I think I got lucky on this one, it lined up on the first try.</td></tr>
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Next step is to bore the spindle holes in the bow. I space the spindles to what is pleasing to the eye (about 2" to 2 /14" apart), mark them and bore them using the spindles as a guide. <br />
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After that I do a dry fit of the entire upper portion of the chair. This gives me the opportunity to make any adjustments prior to the glue up. Which is the next and most nerve racking step for me in the entire process. So many glue joints and it always seems I could use another set of hands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJe9WDxZsu_2qmFoina3wh9Nxjs4YWxblgFo3iR8VegooZrgzWFSkMcZGh-G2p4SVil0HIqJDqJcdvBYLdmFrdSCusXEphGYxrBkXyu2F7Wmmj9CYxDCgUubhL646ue0GBd5iQ8qc94wTy/s1600/IMG_0522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJe9WDxZsu_2qmFoina3wh9Nxjs4YWxblgFo3iR8VegooZrgzWFSkMcZGh-G2p4SVil0HIqJDqJcdvBYLdmFrdSCusXEphGYxrBkXyu2F7Wmmj9CYxDCgUubhL646ue0GBd5iQ8qc94wTy/s640/IMG_0522.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is after the glue up and I have already cleaned up the arm stumps and the short spindles.</td></tr>
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After the glue has dried overnight I cut off the excess spindle and wedge ends and pare them down with a shallow sweep gouge. Next I level the chair and finish the bottom of the legs by cutting a chamfer around the foot. After cutting the chamfer I slice the bottoms of the leg on a #8 plane mounted upside down in my leg vise.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_3he2JAvWgWUt5EYwfnDHzSMCmCwIPzulSBX9JpdNM5EfZz7VwFOlhlKSE388LJGxS6wbDuXvD8a_dI48ZoEzk4Wgaaj_AGD8PGfL5dB1vzpoeSpYo_fENk9mqRB1W2G_Y8Bijlqv5DMZ/s1600/IMG_0523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_3he2JAvWgWUt5EYwfnDHzSMCmCwIPzulSBX9JpdNM5EfZz7VwFOlhlKSE388LJGxS6wbDuXvD8a_dI48ZoEzk4Wgaaj_AGD8PGfL5dB1vzpoeSpYo_fENk9mqRB1W2G_Y8Bijlqv5DMZ/s640/IMG_0523.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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Next I go over the chair and inspect for any glue that I may have missed prior to painting with milk paint. The first coat I used a dark Royal Blue base coat. I allowed this to dry overnight. In the morning I rubbed it down with a maroon Scotch-Brite pad and removed the dust.<br />
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Next I painted the chair with a thinned coat of a lighter Costal Blue. This coat was thin enough that it allowed the darker base coat to show through, giving the chair a mottled look. After allowing the second coat to dry for four hours I rubbed the chair down with a gray (less abrasive) Scotch-Brite pad. I removed the dust and then applied one coat of a wipe on varnish.<br />
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I usually use a top coat like Danish oil on my full sized human chairs, but for a kids chair I have found it is better served with a varnish top coat. I was happy with the single coat of varnish so I have declared my June chair build completed. I will claim success when I see the smile of its new owner.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZAS-94bpTrWVc9KOtoUJ-bFCoRK1RW7RHnTMFz7Jm6vdjJFdKMB5XAK-HknKFfVg2GDEu2Sjwzwz8kyV14HO-LsFwuBC3uwkY6_-VLAjXJOsHgj2EzLBhckmMhPXFRfYqHhKEkN2d0TC/s1600/IMG_0534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZAS-94bpTrWVc9KOtoUJ-bFCoRK1RW7RHnTMFz7Jm6vdjJFdKMB5XAK-HknKFfVg2GDEu2Sjwzwz8kyV14HO-LsFwuBC3uwkY6_-VLAjXJOsHgj2EzLBhckmMhPXFRfYqHhKEkN2d0TC/s640/IMG_0534.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hopefully you can see the mottled blue look on the arm stump.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4PNPM0wC5910AMHXgSaOaNipT0Osugol3Evq_9YlN32VbjWSTC_AedD_TcVnxGsT13zybYLo85osKS6-ga691PxAx-B210bH31D7LcoDgvD-NFxpEQ11-TApeN5D18iFTfImXB9eVg333/s1600/IMG_0527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4PNPM0wC5910AMHXgSaOaNipT0Osugol3Evq_9YlN32VbjWSTC_AedD_TcVnxGsT13zybYLo85osKS6-ga691PxAx-B210bH31D7LcoDgvD-NFxpEQ11-TApeN5D18iFTfImXB9eVg333/s640/IMG_0527.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here it is! A child's Sack Back Windsor, with bamboo turnings.</td></tr>
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Many thanks to Brian Eve for starting the June Chair Build. I am so glad that he picked the month of June since it is the longest month of the year...............<br />
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~ Ray Schwanenberger<br />
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Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-61972986437600445652015-07-01T22:26:00.000-04:002015-07-01T22:26:05.470-04:00June/ July Chair Build<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JROOy3wrepxePYfIoIGV3P6xMhBDFTFh7mg-dk99F8nVw1hy5_qwEmk6EnSiGPaYgUqjemVvQiQT3Wm7XpqeN3cpKtBiBpFOa7lsZ2zvNeqHAytw_1cbHGEC-CEjAIdZMeiMkU7N5Ggk/s1600/IMG_0495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JROOy3wrepxePYfIoIGV3P6xMhBDFTFh7mg-dk99F8nVw1hy5_qwEmk6EnSiGPaYgUqjemVvQiQT3Wm7XpqeN3cpKtBiBpFOa7lsZ2zvNeqHAytw_1cbHGEC-CEjAIdZMeiMkU7N5Ggk/s640/IMG_0495.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
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Well as Brian has said many a time, "Life happens". Such is the case with me. I did manage to get a chance to finish carving the spindles for my chair last Saturday. Before I did that I took a few minutes to sharpen my drawknives. While the edges felt sharp and would grab a finger nail, I could tell by the way they were cutting it was time for a quick tune-up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV3IuHpOhZoclbvlb1kvUbey-a_KyGhQ24fPVgKi6h4CGMYwp-sa41EPmuEPZefhcSBqyL7bjhcsjnPlY0kEut49MTaLZCyQ3CV67QRItReR17sh49Tq2bvqTtcIzoxeL9LkkqmTpf33g2/s1600/IMG_0493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV3IuHpOhZoclbvlb1kvUbey-a_KyGhQ24fPVgKi6h4CGMYwp-sa41EPmuEPZefhcSBqyL7bjhcsjnPlY0kEut49MTaLZCyQ3CV67QRItReR17sh49Tq2bvqTtcIzoxeL9LkkqmTpf33g2/s640/IMG_0493.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bevel down knife and the Drawsharp</td></tr>
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Pete Galbert in conjunction with Jameel Abraham of Benchcrafted fame, developed the Drawsharp. It is a wonderful tool for quickly sharpening/honing the edge of a drawknife. Check it out <a href="http://benchcrafted.com/Drawsharp.htm" target="_blank">here</a> on the Benchcrafted site and on Pete's <a href="http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/search?q=Drawsharp" target="_blank">blog</a>.<br />
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I was able to get the spindles roughed out into octagonal shapes and set aside to begin to dry. I let them sit for a bit before exposing them to the heat in the attic, my present day kiln that only works in the summer months. This keeps the pieces from warping and splitting. I was curious so tonight I checked an extra spindles moisture content and was happy to see it had gone form 35% to 15% since Saturday. Now I cam put them in the attic to begin super drying them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ii8QdI3JMB_FFXYNvAL4t6NOt0Ifoxw4ykbyTGh_34_8YVaHT2Fuqt1fbu_AVfi4NvdYWi7FerlMGrr1fFG8Mzw_3O8SFIvBCt8V_r9vaxuRQgvagI_pwBA9U1Zhp2RcCKHLPVpPLWq1/s1600/IMG_0500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ii8QdI3JMB_FFXYNvAL4t6NOt0Ifoxw4ykbyTGh_34_8YVaHT2Fuqt1fbu_AVfi4NvdYWi7FerlMGrr1fFG8Mzw_3O8SFIvBCt8V_r9vaxuRQgvagI_pwBA9U1Zhp2RcCKHLPVpPLWq1/s640/IMG_0500.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spindle at 15% EMC. Time to put in the attic.</td></tr>
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I finished the night off by doing a bit of redesigning of a stool seat. What I did was increase the size by 10% and changed a few sight line, rake and splay angles. Nothing drastic from the original design, but it is something that I have been wanting to do and now that I have someone wanting a stool I have the opportunity.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguvaE4qbN_zBbu-nKxCRLRIBWM-p1vVogpiAieKvFnsZlCmJUOdgBJp53zAT2i__yJjwAK8VnnVuhtOXxb_H0XGNcbBFBtZ8_0fr7r1aaL9HBuilDD4Xhe598Cjq07BxZ1FaBFuaExyUNq/s1600/IMG_0499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguvaE4qbN_zBbu-nKxCRLRIBWM-p1vVogpiAieKvFnsZlCmJUOdgBJp53zAT2i__yJjwAK8VnnVuhtOXxb_H0XGNcbBFBtZ8_0fr7r1aaL9HBuilDD4Xhe598Cjq07BxZ1FaBFuaExyUNq/s640/IMG_0499.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In shop design session.</td></tr>
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Next I will be finishing up the arm for the chair and preparing to do the final assembly. Hopefully the sun will come out and heat up the attic so that I may finish up the June Chair Build by the end of next week. If not I may just have to finally break down and build a kiln. Until the next time be well and be safe.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-78048015127995156642015-06-24T22:05:00.000-04:002015-06-24T22:05:50.052-04:00Chair Build Days, Oh Heck I've Lost TrackI have lost track of what day I'm on or what day it is. I am happy to report I have replaced my computer and I am back online. I chucked the PC for an iMac and have a bit of learning to do.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjj-N5xUWGzCcKLpcQ2GuHl5UUSmwIPU8JAdorKs0UkDJ5Xzoqt4yYDU2Ojt5FLFokUy4Nzq9EASJ9a6fj0MLkKNzOIU06MgRBxtU8ku2j4pAt5aVRjotV-qtJuPiSECBlwTLqWt3y6ZwR/s1600/IMG_0473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjj-N5xUWGzCcKLpcQ2GuHl5UUSmwIPU8JAdorKs0UkDJ5Xzoqt4yYDU2Ojt5FLFokUy4Nzq9EASJ9a6fj0MLkKNzOIU06MgRBxtU8ku2j4pAt5aVRjotV-qtJuPiSECBlwTLqWt3y6ZwR/s640/IMG_0473.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medial stretcher fit to side stretcher</td></tr>
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Since my last post I drilled and assembled the under carriage of the chair. In the past I have done my boring with a bit brace and either an auger or spoon bit. For this chair I used a battery operated drill with a brad point bit that I ground specifically for the purpose of building chairs. Pete Galbert covers grinding bits in great detail in his book <i>Chairmaker's Notebook</i>. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyVdcqVUpKpRH172pc7UI4acjaEpqcqv46GyWbiouUVGdpBtPzVUKLKmzCjn25WZkJTa-g7BI9lXvP8up0s1PlkDrT0UO9r_jaei1WzteHy5MBhvya0Iagbj6zXNInlmtzmfkjbeupKju9/s1600/IMG_0474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyVdcqVUpKpRH172pc7UI4acjaEpqcqv46GyWbiouUVGdpBtPzVUKLKmzCjn25WZkJTa-g7BI9lXvP8up0s1PlkDrT0UO9r_jaei1WzteHy5MBhvya0Iagbj6zXNInlmtzmfkjbeupKju9/s640/IMG_0474.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drilling the leg for the side stretcher. I removed the drill for clarity.</td></tr>
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In the photo above I am using a method I have been using for awhile now. I first read about this on Pete's blog and decided to give it a go. I found it to be very accurate and much easier than my old way of measuring. I will probably not do justice with my brief explanation but here it goes.<br />
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After the legs are reamed and placed in the seat I put painters tape on the legs running with the centerline from bottom to top ensuring I cover the area where the side stretchers will be placed into the legs. I place the piece of plywood with a predetermined angle (I believe this one is 72 or 74 degrees) against the two right legs. Using a carpenters pencil laid flat on the plywood angle I draw a new centerline on the tape. Repeat the process for the left legs. <br />
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Next I place a leg in the V-Blocks and adjust the blocks so the new centerline is parallel to the bench top. I set the board upright resting on the angle cut on the board as seen in the photo above, and use it as a drilling guide. It is very important to remember to put the top of the leg toward you and then drill. This will ensure you are drilling the mortise in the correct plane.<br />
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The advantage of drilling using this method alleviates having to measure each mortise angle for each leg and allows you to drill one angle that is easily repeated. It is possible because a new average centerline was drawn onto the leg and used as the basis for drilling. If that is as clear as mud I understand. It took me a few times reading it on <a href="http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/search?q=A+new+way" target="_blank">Pete's blog</a> before it sunk in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC2SH1wJa8qZFu320L7kh96_xfwCzD3NFoTgzxW3hg4IsxbMJBPTfmBE8X7_V1ysnl4Stvv8H5ZRz5XgbEJVzpx8nNob5s9hDafP1NwM5zxp2GHOuFiMLBG23veKAinr3-M5B46MBp_K6v/s1600/IMG_0476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC2SH1wJa8qZFu320L7kh96_xfwCzD3NFoTgzxW3hg4IsxbMJBPTfmBE8X7_V1ysnl4Stvv8H5ZRz5XgbEJVzpx8nNob5s9hDafP1NwM5zxp2GHOuFiMLBG23veKAinr3-M5B46MBp_K6v/s640/IMG_0476.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The H-Stretchers are assembled and the legs set back in their mortises preparing for the glue-up.</td></tr>
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Next comes the glue up. I assemble the stretchers in their H-pattern ensuring that the ends marked for the back legs are on the same side. I use the bench to rotate the side stretchers so that the ends going into either the front or rear legs both touch the bench top. This ensures that the stretcher assembly is square and will easily fit into the leg mortises.<br />
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I number each leg and the corresponding mortise. When I glue the legs to the stretchers I start with #1 and continue to #4. When all four legs are glued onto the stretcher assembly the tops of the legs will not fit into their mortises. They will sit on the underside of the seat just to the inside of the reamed mortises. This is due to the rake and splay of the legs. Next I applied glue to the leg mortises and tenons, and with a little pressure the legs will flex enough to enter the mortises. Then with great care seat the legs into the mortises up to the depth lines that were established when fitting the legs.<br />
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Prior to gluing the legs onto the stretcher assembly I used a saw to cut a kerf for the wedges into the top of the legs. These kerfs are approximately 2/3 the distance from the leg top to the depth line.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTxIW40TPSPdoZvOxblOn2iQrDfID9Uv7AZn6bKLhATevLVczmLuJ_BW2CXI9S4EoNBDKBO1PN9QaZetx8kw8RL1SWtDKOpfaaIcBjyBVL32T1f_tslNLGbJ1XA2ap0_iVvtHtzXcvCzv/s1600/IMG_0477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTxIW40TPSPdoZvOxblOn2iQrDfID9Uv7AZn6bKLhATevLVczmLuJ_BW2CXI9S4EoNBDKBO1PN9QaZetx8kw8RL1SWtDKOpfaaIcBjyBVL32T1f_tslNLGbJ1XA2ap0_iVvtHtzXcvCzv/s640/IMG_0477.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Legs before wedges are inserted.</td></tr>
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In the photo above you may have noticed that the kerfs for the wedges are cut perpendicular to the grain of the seat. If they were cut parallel to the grain it would be very easy to split the seat when inserting the wedges. I cut my wedges slightly wider than the mortise in the seat. I do this so that when I drive the wedges into the kerf the little bit that comes into contact with the softer pine seat acts like a key and helps keep the legs from rotating. Wether it is needed or not is debatable but it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling so I do it. Another important note is to put glue on only one side of the wedge. This will keep things from splitting when there is seasonal movement of the wood.<br />
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I use hide glue and only hide glue. I have used Titebond or even Elmer's glue in the past, but the problem is that tight parts will seize quickly and sometimes before all parts are where they are supposed to be, and that will make one loose their mind. I use an inexpensive hot pot with a plastic container (cut down Solo cup) to heat my glue to the optimal temperature of somewhere between 110 - 130 degrees. I don't mix my own glue, I really like and use <a href="http://www.oldbrownglue.com/" target="_blank">Old Brown Glue</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5uTshuocuGK56Dwgr0Wh7yLqVDnDOkZ8jLQmUzJUECyeMkeDRIoPGmcWcbo2ho8v6G0Tac4wQXV-6jGsuHo4u8CGkwqWF2txanTSbixg6WzYAQx0GrEkfYcXKxLoI_mZR0OMwkF2pTn0/s1600/IMG_0479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5uTshuocuGK56Dwgr0Wh7yLqVDnDOkZ8jLQmUzJUECyeMkeDRIoPGmcWcbo2ho8v6G0Tac4wQXV-6jGsuHo4u8CGkwqWF2txanTSbixg6WzYAQx0GrEkfYcXKxLoI_mZR0OMwkF2pTn0/s640/IMG_0479.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My $20 glue pot works like a champ.<br /><br /></td></tr>
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When driving the wedges into the leg top it is important that the leg is positioned vertical so that the hammer blows to the wedge travel directly through the leg into the bench top. If the chair was allowed to remain on all four legs while driving the wedges the indirect pressure of the hammer blows could cause the leg to split out below the underside of the seat. Ask me how I know this. I allow the freshly glued up undercarriage to dry for at least 24 hours, so the glue will reach its full strength, before cutting the wedges and trimming the legs flush to the seat.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFma_5nhhzG5vpurvDTvNPVrAcphsMrgRD8h03O8ASZ9E8bpiFO1pKhE_dZnXN6NF7_s2UvyXHZGUjEqds-QhM3Z86zV5N8gIlYgBz7-bjOmOWL2N3WuhN1kDSROEG0UtHVbu0_RgQZ5t/s1600/IMG_0480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFma_5nhhzG5vpurvDTvNPVrAcphsMrgRD8h03O8ASZ9E8bpiFO1pKhE_dZnXN6NF7_s2UvyXHZGUjEqds-QhM3Z86zV5N8gIlYgBz7-bjOmOWL2N3WuhN1kDSROEG0UtHVbu0_RgQZ5t/s640/IMG_0480.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedges in place.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Xy5sD0UNNlSas47LC5YOFMaunB3tWEu_mHbANxUJv7gmyLhdAxTRHgqaHFORQ5o0YbG2y98okLAAIz2LgmvsjD4O9bikLY4T21bWP6dyhAtLoj2Gjchq6FPFTOUo-4Y0VyYb4ucxMq7Z/s1600/IMG_0481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Xy5sD0UNNlSas47LC5YOFMaunB3tWEu_mHbANxUJv7gmyLhdAxTRHgqaHFORQ5o0YbG2y98okLAAIz2LgmvsjD4O9bikLY4T21bWP6dyhAtLoj2Gjchq6FPFTOUo-4Y0VyYb4ucxMq7Z/s640/IMG_0481.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seat with its undercarriage.</td></tr>
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This evening I had a few minutes so I pulled some oak, that has been soaking for quite a bit, from its watery domain. When I lifted the lid, well lets say WOW! Its a good thing this blog isn't equipped with smell.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlTUuj5ZuNbDrMfmB60bos5XhxV9A2GVqdL3XwxRlAa2LuhjAZtsluZC4ErTj8HcL5V4httpZrianFSmLVCrbRIRsxBZe5wkoIQe0msZCJP5iY4kFjMzPum90EmyYOleqyjdAHBhdYV1O/s1600/IMG_0490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlTUuj5ZuNbDrMfmB60bos5XhxV9A2GVqdL3XwxRlAa2LuhjAZtsluZC4ErTj8HcL5V4httpZrianFSmLVCrbRIRsxBZe5wkoIQe0msZCJP5iY4kFjMzPum90EmyYOleqyjdAHBhdYV1O/s640/IMG_0490.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wet spindle stock.</td></tr>
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I carved out the 4 short spindles into octagons and set them aside to dry. Rehydrating the oak has made it much easier to carve and to follow the long wood fibers, than it would have been if it were worked in an air-dried state.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUy6gMlq5rA7uPMzq3AZaMcCFEz6ER4fw8xgYqOQ3ZNKUekozu0icRp8Hc4EzYpZTJntDkvjnnowlQjt3FmyP2kL6V4AXZOGNOXgwBbLMmGaWeps2SCVkNmImsRLYUReBmq62AOo_8QQK4/s1600/IMG_0491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUy6gMlq5rA7uPMzq3AZaMcCFEz6ER4fw8xgYqOQ3ZNKUekozu0icRp8Hc4EzYpZTJntDkvjnnowlQjt3FmyP2kL6V4AXZOGNOXgwBbLMmGaWeps2SCVkNmImsRLYUReBmq62AOo_8QQK4/s640/IMG_0491.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short spindles in their octagon shape.</td></tr>
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Next I will finish the long spindles and then it is a matter of letting things dry for a bit before I place them in the kiln (read shop attic) to super dry. While this was to be a June Chair Build it looks like this is going to be more like a June and July Chair Build for me.<br />
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Our host for this event, Brian Eve, has gotten his chair underway and it looks like it is going to be a nice one. Go check it out <a href="http://toolerable.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-27899838502054888862015-06-17T22:24:00.000-04:002015-06-17T22:24:40.668-04:00Oh heck it's only Wednesday<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bvyjmhYvM9moqzvVnNI0-X4zTOvGK0vYVo0STWCfq5CpCUm8kqA1GHq5BigymXBeXJnzh6TJ5vQUD-Ozhuyh6Xy-9E70cAqtmPCHCu-Fkqv9Waj-5NhQqKej1MQQetdayd-rWYdz_gYh/s1600/IMG_0026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bvyjmhYvM9moqzvVnNI0-X4zTOvGK0vYVo0STWCfq5CpCUm8kqA1GHq5BigymXBeXJnzh6TJ5vQUD-Ozhuyh6Xy-9E70cAqtmPCHCu-Fkqv9Waj-5NhQqKej1MQQetdayd-rWYdz_gYh/s640/IMG_0026.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sack Back Nanny Rocker</td></tr>
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Well, it has been one of those weeks where life has gotten a head of steam and is attempting to roll me over. I am making this post from my wife's laptop because, (long pause for affect) my computer has taken a dump. The pictures taken for the chair build are presently trapped inside and therefore I am unable to post them. Computer is in the shop with hopes of being able to be back online in a day or two. As if that wasn't enough I woke up this morning to an air conditioning system not working. Well enough whining on my part.<br />
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On the lighter side the boot/brace is off the foot and things seem to be working well. Thanks Doc! This evening I had a visit to the shop from fellow woodworker and friend, the incomparable Donna Hill. If you are not familiar with Donna she is quite the accomplished woodworker, instructor and speaker. Donna is very active with The Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM), is the Project Illustrator for Popular Woodworking Magazine, past speaker at Woodworking In America (WIA) and has taught numerous classes on inlay. If you see where Donna is teaching a class do yourself a favor and sign up.<br />
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Donna stopped by to talk about building her first Windsor Chair. She is wanting to take on the most difficult chair I have built to date (see photo). I am honored that she has asked me to guide and instruct her in her endeavor. I look forward to working with such a talent.<br />
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When I have my cyber issues rectified I will be posting on the June Chair Build and when Donna gets ready to go and with her permission I will post on her first Windsor experience.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-50380196359712570492015-06-12T14:38:00.000-04:002015-06-12T14:38:55.823-04:00Chair Build Days 4 and 5Much has taken place in the shop since the last post two days ago. Yesterday, I pulled another piece from the water and was quite pleased to see a 39% MC reading. This meant it was time to steam and bend. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHizBNOO3d6EDSA66KlNHJM4qKu9-IAFkcaS16o7OP8aj3JcxMkfXmtA_Icgyoj8-HmpNISm-WUE1kYA8T0AEs1lcoN0vofoyyeimw_UZZC7EV5ql7wPHClwFQ9tNIakU3qMZS8arJA-C6/s1600/IMG_0464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHizBNOO3d6EDSA66KlNHJM4qKu9-IAFkcaS16o7OP8aj3JcxMkfXmtA_Icgyoj8-HmpNISm-WUE1kYA8T0AEs1lcoN0vofoyyeimw_UZZC7EV5ql7wPHClwFQ9tNIakU3qMZS8arJA-C6/s640/IMG_0464.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After soaking for about two and a half days.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
First I had to do a little adaptation to my steam delivery system. Up until yesterday I had used the 12' hose connecting to special fittings on both the steamer and steam box. The problem is 12' of hose is 9' too much. In the past I was unable to get my steambox up to 212 degrees, and I believe it was because of a heat loss in the hose.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL58oV-q_a6g35KtwnnAnPFWSJmz-9YRNFJmbbMrISt0c2ivoM_p_Kv9rYzUHGxUU7WV7vBp6No-ZZRLbzsvVXxBiT4g_DEkJrZeRCVJFINz1jTbIdy0slLvv2DQX-pjwWc9Ki7RL6I5RD/s1600/IMG_0460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL58oV-q_a6g35KtwnnAnPFWSJmz-9YRNFJmbbMrISt0c2ivoM_p_Kv9rYzUHGxUU7WV7vBp6No-ZZRLbzsvVXxBiT4g_DEkJrZeRCVJFINz1jTbIdy0slLvv2DQX-pjwWc9Ki7RL6I5RD/s640/IMG_0460.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wallpaper steamer requires the fitting on the hose.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZq1Q_3uK7u7llEGe1_1KII6cTMJVYmSGeLGDxZOxTk4HEyGFITQML3lPjmE52-IEZgt0qfQLOrfZRQBmgOP2KnXsNwb4judqzktJeFq679fOIG7s_oc_z9ZqtybcSDUNPikx1V_YfZcGi/s1600/IMG_0458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZq1Q_3uK7u7llEGe1_1KII6cTMJVYmSGeLGDxZOxTk4HEyGFITQML3lPjmE52-IEZgt0qfQLOrfZRQBmgOP2KnXsNwb4judqzktJeFq679fOIG7s_oc_z9ZqtybcSDUNPikx1V_YfZcGi/s640/IMG_0458.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hose fitting to connect the hose to the wallpaper steamer.<br /></td></tr>
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After lopping of 9' of hose I was left with 3' of useable hose with a fitting on one end and open hose on the other. What I discovered was a 3/8" ID hose inside of the black exterior hose.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS-pdpui2j8_K-S04iIhDXpR1jhfxUJ1o30LnjTbZ7YVI_al50lFXPGRL0M-26DYSZkF9gMUtS8QDjZS6ossL_on5QFs-6nejzItlC40XdVwFlRltOhEqia-wvchAEdwUWn-nG818Gjtd/s1600/IMG_0459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS-pdpui2j8_K-S04iIhDXpR1jhfxUJ1o30LnjTbZ7YVI_al50lFXPGRL0M-26DYSZkF9gMUtS8QDjZS6ossL_on5QFs-6nejzItlC40XdVwFlRltOhEqia-wvchAEdwUWn-nG818Gjtd/s640/IMG_0459.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black hose acts as an insulator around the white hose that carries the steam.</td></tr>
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Next I removed the brass fitting from the steam box and on the drill press bore a 7/8" hole that provided a tight fit for the black exterior hose.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW4J_JzhAbSnbcImKj1TqotXWZdtgaf1ruglKbHhuKyrs6Ho3x8ynB_rgNU73WAjMxnDxVtorkAJc_IKSX_nlX9uYEN0Znh4bD84ulncqiMwU2B1nXFjoAm2F-9CHZRdbmjWvvsmQMWFKn/s1600/IMG_0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW4J_JzhAbSnbcImKj1TqotXWZdtgaf1ruglKbHhuKyrs6Ho3x8ynB_rgNU73WAjMxnDxVtorkAJc_IKSX_nlX9uYEN0Znh4bD84ulncqiMwU2B1nXFjoAm2F-9CHZRdbmjWvvsmQMWFKn/s640/IMG_0462.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brass fitting was required when using the hose as it came from the manufacturer.</td></tr>
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While the steamer was bringing the temperature up in the box, I carved a piece into a 7/8" round bow. I marked the center with a line and an arrow so that I would know what side to put up. It is best to figure this out before you have a very hot piece of wood in your hands that needs bent in 45 seconds. I mark the wood in such a way that the tangential plane is against the form. The tangential plane is parallel to the bark and the radial plane runs from the pith to the bark. This would mean the growth rings would be parallel to the bending form. I am happy to report that my steam box made it to 212 degrees with ease.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDEA7AnfpJes8zzEXB_MzSkv9mGPqab9z5VYuRkpl5ZccbWYG8W_Gl5_XSYt2k4h_Onug4wUOwCunL3gZMnVPFSmqhV_0lPcrw02gcLPwolzRt9-BvMZFrb9EJRD57nluGAAVcv3CP55Pq/s1600/IMG_0465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDEA7AnfpJes8zzEXB_MzSkv9mGPqab9z5VYuRkpl5ZccbWYG8W_Gl5_XSYt2k4h_Onug4wUOwCunL3gZMnVPFSmqhV_0lPcrw02gcLPwolzRt9-BvMZFrb9EJRD57nluGAAVcv3CP55Pq/s640/IMG_0465.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steam box actually held 212 degrees without a problem</td></tr>
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The bow was in the box and the timer set for 1 hour. When working with green wood I will usually steam pieces for 30 minutes. Since I was working with wood that had been air-dried I rehydrated the pieces and doubled the steaming time, as suggested by Pete in his book <i>Chairmaker's Notebook. </i>While the steaming was taking place I prepared for the bending. As I said before, once the piece comes out of the box you have a short bit of time to wedge the piece at its center point (arrow up facing the form), bend, pin and wedge the the ends before it cools too much. When the hour was up I put the bow in the form and bent away. I was so so happy with the results. It bent like I had just taken the piece out of a freshly cut tree.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bsXktICQwB5gegWH6o24QYDjiWou-Yp-5iWVdJ34Kz42F2JKzSqhtb_X7Pj6LBufoCB_lEZv_p5FLkQSBHJ7_QMgceQ3cLvCW8NbJU6JhpgMrwQxHh-VoNIqD5gNE7texJukxUUc86Lv/s1600/IMG_0467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bsXktICQwB5gegWH6o24QYDjiWou-Yp-5iWVdJ34Kz42F2JKzSqhtb_X7Pj6LBufoCB_lEZv_p5FLkQSBHJ7_QMgceQ3cLvCW8NbJU6JhpgMrwQxHh-VoNIqD5gNE7texJukxUUc86Lv/s640/IMG_0467.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only place where a fiber or two raised , SUCCESS!</td></tr>
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I attribute the success of the bend to being able to rehydrate the material and being able to deliver a consistent flow of 212 degree steam through out the steam box while using a <u>defect free</u> piece of oak. I was so psyched with the results I carved two more bows and put them into the steam box for an hour. Well it would be great if I reported only my successes, but that isn't me.<br />
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The other two bows came from pieces whose grain was not as straight as it should be (understatement of the week) and as a result I ended up with a few small delaminations. I was able to use some polyurethane glue and tape to repair those. This morning I steamed and bent two arms that I carved and they were out of some wood that I most likely should have cut short of the wonky grain and used for spindles. However I had to give it a go (I need help). One of the arms suffered major delaminations and required glue, clamps and then tape. At this point this arm has become an experiment. The other arm fared a bit better but I will most likely burn it also. It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words, well here you go.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC5gythTriTnkPWQskMy2WkQwFy9ZRQKLN9IvWafxYMNj0NRaruoevDRO9yo3pUu4ryJ3ysuIrTLxl9QcbHm0M9jsjTcs3TSokWFw3KwK3p-CHZsJNfXNuNj0-7errrB8YtQM9kcwq1KjO/s1600/IMG_0471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC5gythTriTnkPWQskMy2WkQwFy9ZRQKLN9IvWafxYMNj0NRaruoevDRO9yo3pUu4ryJ3ysuIrTLxl9QcbHm0M9jsjTcs3TSokWFw3KwK3p-CHZsJNfXNuNj0-7errrB8YtQM9kcwq1KjO/s640/IMG_0471.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delamination in the bow caused a kink most likely rendering it unusable. There is some extra material on the bow, therefore if I am able to fare the curve without loosing to much material it will be used.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13-pnG1Vcj3FC-WUPgxnnNT97ScC67GNtnKRPaA8lBrZzxRiM11dMWNoPCVaZ1vlyxrrfHb9StK8NCPypALNyY1P3QNffzMizAx-glj1dG_nWi3I6RCRf-rDgmYZtVWcixxxO9HOOFPh6/s1600/IMG_0470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13-pnG1Vcj3FC-WUPgxnnNT97ScC67GNtnKRPaA8lBrZzxRiM11dMWNoPCVaZ1vlyxrrfHb9StK8NCPypALNyY1P3QNffzMizAx-glj1dG_nWi3I6RCRf-rDgmYZtVWcixxxO9HOOFPh6/s640/IMG_0470.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the repaired delamination that caused the kink.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mevrmSGIio7hWh4LhmX6JwIvGHvXT0d_1_m6qswpNIxeI5N3mAppvj2lIyEAG6tSUBqx4zu8AhEjrWNKw-R5vrgcGiGvIYdQTw1zNL3pLButUCt090CddlKSh_jwj8QMWHHzYW3Uf3TC/s1600/IMG_0472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mevrmSGIio7hWh4LhmX6JwIvGHvXT0d_1_m6qswpNIxeI5N3mAppvj2lIyEAG6tSUBqx4zu8AhEjrWNKw-R5vrgcGiGvIYdQTw1zNL3pLButUCt090CddlKSh_jwj8QMWHHzYW3Uf3TC/s640/IMG_0472.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This arm bent the best but the wonky grained prevented me from being able to keep it flat in the form. As part of my experimentation I have clamped it to my bench top with holdfasts to see if it will set in a flatter profile.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgioM8AxbdmSlZYkKSXeRe2u3EVHXik4JZ3VuhM_5xJP2-Lj4vrOxznTza0EHir8kLVRMuL0RBkjXlGlowJ4fibFS6bf6AsyGZJC0rbA3tSjJzpjOupecrQ3PSHFobw_TZgmz-Kz1H_tDoq/s1600/IMG_0441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgioM8AxbdmSlZYkKSXeRe2u3EVHXik4JZ3VuhM_5xJP2-Lj4vrOxznTza0EHir8kLVRMuL0RBkjXlGlowJ4fibFS6bf6AsyGZJC0rbA3tSjJzpjOupecrQ3PSHFobw_TZgmz-Kz1H_tDoq/s640/IMG_0441.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moral of the post: If you find yourself wanting to bend pieces like these DON'T! Seek help!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQmUfOqQhe7lyrgkcUghfggql7Iq0Trwxa1AAdIj3aNS4chEvQby7tIOUkprVhZ0gCioaEPGiydLZOIh2046hFD9H-RujPcegGfQDaQJwlfXYzEI8JFsmhofdExTpmnTGgzjqAD715O7Vf/s1600/IMG_0469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQmUfOqQhe7lyrgkcUghfggql7Iq0Trwxa1AAdIj3aNS4chEvQby7tIOUkprVhZ0gCioaEPGiydLZOIh2046hFD9H-RujPcegGfQDaQJwlfXYzEI8JFsmhofdExTpmnTGgzjqAD715O7Vf/s640/IMG_0469.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Five bends with one for sure usable bow and four ahhh maybe's. I guess we will see how or if I am able to recover.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZzYt5ADBUWC50EyXMDxXeBBykQGPVgp2Umcsz7ANtst-oTwjv97RNgo3fgiFLUJQxPLQafUVz9ynNdmKFGyWPfkeRsnlA2ttsTybbqc1sUDvd5jRvgWyGOf62fAcewdCKH-hU9vzzLlv/s1600/IMG_0468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZzYt5ADBUWC50EyXMDxXeBBykQGPVgp2Umcsz7ANtst-oTwjv97RNgo3fgiFLUJQxPLQafUVz9ynNdmKFGyWPfkeRsnlA2ttsTybbqc1sUDvd5jRvgWyGOf62fAcewdCKH-hU9vzzLlv/s640/IMG_0468.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When the day ends it is time for the clean up crew. My grandson Zane telling me "I help Pappy".</td></tr>
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I have an arm that I had bent earlier so I am good to go there. I usually bend more than one component just in case, and it appears it was a good thing. Next I will be carving the spindles and then setting them aside to dry with the bendings from this past session. Until the next time may you be blessed with straight grain always.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-32680058215867082162015-06-10T10:57:00.000-04:002015-06-10T10:57:33.697-04:00Chair Build Day 3<div style="text-align: left;">
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I woke up this morning and my foot was feeling good so, after my morning cup of coffee I headed to the shop. I opened my Quercus alba rehydration device (white oak soaking in water in a trash can) and pulled a thick piece of spindle stock from the odiferous brackish water. I checked the moisture level with my meter and I am happy to report it measured 29%. Since the reading increased by 11% in just one day and I had turnings to do and finish carving the seat, I decided to let the rivings continue to soak.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1lfeUTMFRbQFTr7SEgA-aJkITMuVV4TKNRESCwacOcfPFFveEbbanpqDP1JqNJwEzEYNhIRDbYxm4OiblEWFsid9r5YzW0bnNK7Nh6Lg7bcNFIYRk9iIRjzsXvKWUwIfVXsCJoSLf-yZw/s1600/IMG_0449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1lfeUTMFRbQFTr7SEgA-aJkITMuVV4TKNRESCwacOcfPFFveEbbanpqDP1JqNJwEzEYNhIRDbYxm4OiblEWFsid9r5YzW0bnNK7Nh6Lg7bcNFIYRk9iIRjzsXvKWUwIfVXsCJoSLf-yZw/s640/IMG_0449.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After one day soaking an increase in MC of 11%</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I moved onto finishing the carving of the seat. The seat on a Sack Back is called and oval seat and the grain runs from side to side. On a kids chair I carve the bowl to approximately 3/4" deep. I like to have the area where the legs cross over the front of the seat about 1/2" lower than the spindle deck. This makes for a very comfortable chair that does not cut off the circulation to the legs.<br />
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I did not remove the extra wood on the back of the seat so I had plenty of material to clamp in my bench's leg vise in order to work on the front and sides of the seat. I used my bevel up draw knife to make the relief cut to the front of the seat that gives it its distinctive profile. I then used a drawknife and spoke shave to fair the curve on the sides of the seat.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCEOWU8MeXRaX_fmhHM2WTHLWV8aGTAhKbQ2vr_aiGqhtGKinp3YUySqboo2uyCdmGvy830qy-YNAjfEJCG665jwmAn7HM5FTXxuTnhQxEvh6kSGD_SQN8v2G5H9GZ690LcEwb8dAp7-LQ/s1600/IMG_0452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCEOWU8MeXRaX_fmhHM2WTHLWV8aGTAhKbQ2vr_aiGqhtGKinp3YUySqboo2uyCdmGvy830qy-YNAjfEJCG665jwmAn7HM5FTXxuTnhQxEvh6kSGD_SQN8v2G5H9GZ690LcEwb8dAp7-LQ/s640/IMG_0452.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front of the seat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Next I removed the excess material from the back of the seat blank. I then took great care in clamping the seat in my vise and finished fairing the curve around the back of the seat. My leg vise chop and the portion of the bench face covered by the chop are lined with leather. This is to aid in gripping and helps to keep from damaging the material being held in the vise. A note of great importance; When clamping in a bench vise, a seat blank that has been cut to size and carved, ALWAYS clamp on the spindle deck. NEVER clamp onto ANY PART of the carved seat. Don't ask me how I know this will save you grab mental anguish.<br />
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Next I removed the material where the legs cross over the front of the seat. To do this I used the drawknife, scorp, travisher and spokeshave, taking light and deliberate cuts. It was ultra critical to pay close attention to the grain. With so many undulations in this area it was very important to ensure I was cutting downhill with a skewed blade. A slip or misguided cut at this stage could result in a tear out that may not be able to be repaired.<br />
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I then finished up with several shaped scrapers and sand paper. On some of my first seats I didn't use sandpaper. Curtis Buchanan explained that the seat was the largest surface on the chair and naturally draws ones eye to it. For this reason, Curtis scrapes and sands to ensure the finish is at a very high level. At this point I close my eyes and run my fingers over the seat surface. I have learned that my eyes do not see the surface as well as my fingers can feel it. The slightest bump or dip is easier to find and fix.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2QzXjs27MVJlYhfux4TyGHbIxz7cEbmZB8FWVWUi-A76GsJ1yCA2qLDCnC2j5Y8kI_cC60JQA07ugMMwI_fUp2xjB8hyWnqa8UWXzllTBui3CaAelXrpGIbL7iZV-8Bpt9Idew1V_xqVj/s1600/IMG_0450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2QzXjs27MVJlYhfux4TyGHbIxz7cEbmZB8FWVWUi-A76GsJ1yCA2qLDCnC2j5Y8kI_cC60JQA07ugMMwI_fUp2xjB8hyWnqa8UWXzllTBui3CaAelXrpGIbL7iZV-8Bpt9Idew1V_xqVj/s640/IMG_0450.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Circled areas are slightly higher than the surrounding surface. I could not see them but I could feel them. </td></tr>
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After sanding the seat bowl down to 120 grit I planed the spindle deck with my No. 4 hand plane, re-carved the gutter and set the seat aside. Next I turned the four legs, two side stretchers and the medial stretcher. I am using bamboo turnings for this chair. The double bobbin turning is sometimes misidentified as the bamboo turning.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyENIEmcA56HHfuvtPIXP_n460gnENGiX5kKl7c1_sEyou_NZUZVzz91322t0R4lMsNy43il1yetagekQec1Ky7mmUen-dvxoBQ8bTX4WY1Pv9WUkG4GajEoZchVRoIXW5gJcTgwCu9Vpm/s1600/IMG_0451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyENIEmcA56HHfuvtPIXP_n460gnENGiX5kKl7c1_sEyou_NZUZVzz91322t0R4lMsNy43il1yetagekQec1Ky7mmUen-dvxoBQ8bTX4WY1Pv9WUkG4GajEoZchVRoIXW5gJcTgwCu9Vpm/s640/IMG_0451.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Seat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFaclumQXeWn4OOOuNhubNqQ_htJ_WNnB8c4d1UMKt0ZPALy_jQVsnD91nkGZikF_3och2mi43OGsKPsMvSfnU9fRT-IJboGf9Mcf6tWIvUMqChzv8nNJvirr5pFpoPAqNPG5zISbVrQj/s1600/IMG_0453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFaclumQXeWn4OOOuNhubNqQ_htJ_WNnB8c4d1UMKt0ZPALy_jQVsnD91nkGZikF_3och2mi43OGsKPsMvSfnU9fRT-IJboGf9Mcf6tWIvUMqChzv8nNJvirr5pFpoPAqNPG5zISbVrQj/s640/IMG_0453.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bamboo leg turnings</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3PWr2qcQeSjG_L1GQ9JYmbOb_fTlL5EJtOH7icuoEE5vI5BiAf9-L9MGNDpQtsFQbvO3r6RyNq3J78wDkbX46ZnecMYEl-CSJYrNCYvMx9FJZUrA6lt8J4XJwkPHkcRLMBoOYAFQnUd0/s1600/IMG_0454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3PWr2qcQeSjG_L1GQ9JYmbOb_fTlL5EJtOH7icuoEE5vI5BiAf9-L9MGNDpQtsFQbvO3r6RyNq3J78wDkbX46ZnecMYEl-CSJYrNCYvMx9FJZUrA6lt8J4XJwkPHkcRLMBoOYAFQnUd0/s640/IMG_0454.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four different type turnings from left to right:<br />Baluster; Blunt Arrow or Ball & Cylinder; Bamboo; Double Bobbin w/A Bead</td></tr>
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Tomorrow I will check on the soaking oak and begin to put the undercarriage together and attach it to the seat. <br />
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~ Ray Schwanenberger<br />
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Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-55842665104166239212015-06-08T16:33:00.000-04:002015-06-08T16:33:14.309-04:00Chair Build Day 2<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5B-NIW_dQ1ai2vyUwo6Z2GRN_lYhEKGPOq7WKfPDHLMPa-mdo8VE8X1tRA2S9X16Xxo1bFi4g5fqQcEuhlZScKnLB_4hKGB1vZvARD13QosFsuaL0Gj2XtUDgdLg-Cm2d-7ZAF8Wx4xKY/s1600/IMG_0435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5B-NIW_dQ1ai2vyUwo6Z2GRN_lYhEKGPOq7WKfPDHLMPa-mdo8VE8X1tRA2S9X16Xxo1bFi4g5fqQcEuhlZScKnLB_4hKGB1vZvARD13QosFsuaL0Gj2XtUDgdLg-Cm2d-7ZAF8Wx4xKY/s640/IMG_0435.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The big white oak, as you can see it has begun to split by itself.</td></tr>
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Above is the oak log that has been residing by my garage for what I have determined is almost two years. I recruited my future son-in-law to split the white oak into a few manageable pieces for me. When I went out to make it accessible, and take the picture, I was happy to uncover previously split and rived pieces. You can see them between the log and the wall. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHD9953NJT1xL0RcR20vwS2NvGzlvChPXxQRTCWg6xa_FExu61CI75IVD-C97akWCMBkpzrDVA93BqEWT37ePOpS6tTDXMTNadX5biPptOumsXYgXElvxhcrzm35p6Tpjt92mopIYhBrQ/s1600/IMG_0436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHD9953NJT1xL0RcR20vwS2NvGzlvChPXxQRTCWg6xa_FExu61CI75IVD-C97akWCMBkpzrDVA93BqEWT37ePOpS6tTDXMTNadX5biPptOumsXYgXElvxhcrzm35p6Tpjt92mopIYhBrQ/s640/IMG_0436.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Previously split and rived pieces I uncovered.</td></tr>
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While I was unsure what the moisture content of the log would be I was certain that the previously split pieces would be too dry to work with. I used my froe and rived the largest piece in two and then took a moisture reading from the freshly opened face. As I had suspected the wood was fairly dry, the meter read 18%.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgFLwjoPz69H6u9VLGDqr-dCxlzRvOIFFls6eBIFzBAfER2zkhh3khLjsihRxnyM2v-iS_6XEojDzXnjru2V8dRakOlHpsOed0mAr8udbZwIr8eZd94nyPB2wptjr2lCGvhHsU-af7HATf/s1600/IMG_0438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgFLwjoPz69H6u9VLGDqr-dCxlzRvOIFFls6eBIFzBAfER2zkhh3khLjsihRxnyM2v-iS_6XEojDzXnjru2V8dRakOlHpsOed0mAr8udbZwIr8eZd94nyPB2wptjr2lCGvhHsU-af7HATf/s640/IMG_0438.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shavehorse doing double duty as a saw bench.</td></tr>
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I cut the pieces for the arm/bow and spindles to their rough length and then using my <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froe" target="_blank">froe</a> and <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=riving+brake&newwindow=1&rlz=1C2CHFX_enUS586US586&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=7fl1Vdu0E4OdNsbJg8AH&ved=0CD4QsAQ&biw=1280&bih=899" target="_blank">riving brake</a> rived the pieces to rough size. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTQ2PWVw6ZE&list=PLL_KlogKd1xf-P7ObrjmBHEWgiZAl37lx&index=4" target="_blank">Click here</a> to see a video of Curtis Buchanan demonstrating how a froe and riving brake are used.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKRQSewfJNzZgKDe8ra6NYCTLb8pr1t5iDBQ9VuGIRpd3Kb8f5Pp6Qv2xkFBVHHCirfb0OW93zL6hFygV7_itEG_tDqO7DRkSQvPa-CxkewgACa-K4Opgqx1OJ9QYhWQUo5ijMHw3ncREq/s1600/IMG_0440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKRQSewfJNzZgKDe8ra6NYCTLb8pr1t5iDBQ9VuGIRpd3Kb8f5Pp6Qv2xkFBVHHCirfb0OW93zL6hFygV7_itEG_tDqO7DRkSQvPa-CxkewgACa-K4Opgqx1OJ9QYhWQUo5ijMHw3ncREq/s640/IMG_0440.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enough roughed out parts for uppers of three kids Sack Back Windsors plus some spare spindles. The pile on the far left is the only waste from the riving process. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjQDE5X5Th5iHoqUGFBIkRspZgGzVySFEBKqlZcUYhxB8sra3i68Fwz-41cR50vayTLCHu-uO7cSNPHzXnYf7ohJkoqi4xL_a1XMDYEduzP9hHRiXVWdA5Envt2I7YhpVD4QdIfr1rUjD0/s1600/IMG_0441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjQDE5X5Th5iHoqUGFBIkRspZgGzVySFEBKqlZcUYhxB8sra3i68Fwz-41cR50vayTLCHu-uO7cSNPHzXnYf7ohJkoqi4xL_a1XMDYEduzP9hHRiXVWdA5Envt2I7YhpVD4QdIfr1rUjD0/s640/IMG_0441.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two arm/bow pieces with a bit of curve in the grain.<br /></td></tr>
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Two of the arm/bow rivings had some grain that was a little curvy. I am not overly concerned with this. I will carve these pieces following the grain, which will provide me with strong pieces. Because I will have followed the long wood fibers the piece may not be straight, but it will provide me with the best chance for a successful bend.<br />
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Since the moisture reading was 18% I decided I was going to soak these pieces in water for a few days before working with them. I want to give myself the best chance at making successful bends. I also want to see, if after rehydrating, the spindle pieces are any easier to carve than they would be at 18% <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content" target="_blank">EMC</a>. After 3-4 days I will remove one of the largest and smallest pieces and take more readings. If I am able to get a spindle to 25% I will carve it and see how the piece responds. I am hopeful to get the arm/bow pieces to at least 50%. I don't know this is all an experiment on my part. I will be posting my not so scientific findings when I find them. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RGGZTcfnBeloJRtgLh5b9aTd7Dy-r-5mYYBmaGjIGv-nX7JRt-lBZ1yVEp03crQtpGFv3uRohpHq8msnRqp_IZn8QeSua9YEjgRKBd9vZ74dQ75KNs7L3a-OQgUqG2gywRQQUiSloBGr/s1600/IMG_0445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RGGZTcfnBeloJRtgLh5b9aTd7Dy-r-5mYYBmaGjIGv-nX7JRt-lBZ1yVEp03crQtpGFv3uRohpHq8msnRqp_IZn8QeSua9YEjgRKBd9vZ74dQ75KNs7L3a-OQgUqG2gywRQQUiSloBGr/s640/IMG_0445.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pieces ready to be rehydrated in a freshly cleaned trash container.</td></tr>
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I followed Pete Galbert's advice and sealed the ends of every piece with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=anchor+seal&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=34371202669&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14411159482951205805&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2ch56tznjs_e" target="_blank">Anchor Seal</a>. After allowing them to dry for a few hours I placed all of the pieces into the trash container and filled it with water. As luck would have it I discovered a few holes in my rehydration device. I have since sealed them with silicone and am waiting on it to dry while I make this post.<br />
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One problem, which I'm sure you have already figured out, is wood is buoyant and will not stay submerged unless it is weighted down. I did think of this however, I figured I would "stir" the pieces every day, hopefully entrapping the floaters under the already submerged pieces, causing them to become floaters. I did put a clamp on the hinged lid so as to keep a family member from blindly tossing a bag of garbage into my floating punji sticks resulting in something very nasty.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-83281679611497654832015-06-05T20:15:00.002-04:002015-06-05T20:15:48.239-04:00Chair Build Day 1Well as you might imagine getting around in the shop with a large medical boot brace on ones foot is cumbersome. However, I must press on. Usually I would split, rive and shave my arm and bow parts first. Followed by a good steaming then bending them in their appropriate forms and setting them aside to dry. Then I would move onto the other greenwood work, the spindles. But as I said in a previous post I am going to be doing things a bit out of order, due to my aforementioned state of gimpiness. I am attempting to recruit a strong young person to split that big ole oak log for me. So far no luck.<br />
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So I started on the seat blank. I laid it out, drilled my center spindle hole and the four leg holes. I then began to carve the bowl of the seat. I am happy to report that the Sugar Pine carves very nicely. Like its cousin Eastern White Pine it requires sharp tools. I started with my <a href="http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.com/2013/10/new-adze-and-stack-of-reamers-for-wia.html" target="_blank">adze made by Tim Manney</a>. It works so nicely and made very short work of removing the bulk of the seat bowl. I am a novice with this type of adze and am still learning the nuances of the tool. Next I moved onto the scorp/inshave. Taking a skewed cut working downhill while paying close attention to the grain is paramount. The wood will let you know how it wants to be carved. It is very important to heed its warnings so as to avoid tearing out a deep hole that will be difficult to remove. The last step was to move to my <a href="http://cminihanwoodworks.blogspot.com/p/travishers_26.html" target="_blank">travisher made by Claire Minihan</a>. The travisher is a bit of a peculiar tool to learn to use, for me at least it felt a bit counter intuitive. Again I used a skewed cut working downhill paying attention to what the wood would allow me to do. Using my bandsaw I cut out the front of the seat in preparation to carve it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPTOWiRC7jyPNFq61RaHtliwczzjIjaLUi7uUrhSBi8j7aTtksjtrMUEjr6ioGuXSIz8e1F3Mrb2dg63AcfAfbh7SIqIc-MvXO1pncdW18-AhDOQJdMNjODRT_RnVNI2RYkeNb6tt3U9M/s1600/IMG_0429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPTOWiRC7jyPNFq61RaHtliwczzjIjaLUi7uUrhSBi8j7aTtksjtrMUEjr6ioGuXSIz8e1F3Mrb2dg63AcfAfbh7SIqIc-MvXO1pncdW18-AhDOQJdMNjODRT_RnVNI2RYkeNb6tt3U9M/s640/IMG_0429.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tools Left to Right: Adze, Travisher, Scorp/Inshave</td></tr>
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Next I drilled the arm post holes. To do this I used a square, bevel square and mirror to obtain my 17 degree angle along the sight line. The mirror allows me to compare my drill bit to the bevel square with a glance rather than having to move my head around causing me to loose alignment with the sight line. I use a square lined up perpendicular to the sightline to help me stay aligned as close as possible to the sightline.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP_mm_4vXsdVziKCVmOjpKPXyEnvQRD-AI7nE6iRQS6BIfPYQGQ7A7Bs1FbPJzwkcHlsFEV-Hmi3WFeDiPeUKa0yXb6t1ob38sTRKCrSKBGsXCef_hWH4kNeXJDXM_I-QHrmwMuKgHWhpK/s1600/IMG_0430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP_mm_4vXsdVziKCVmOjpKPXyEnvQRD-AI7nE6iRQS6BIfPYQGQ7A7Bs1FbPJzwkcHlsFEV-Hmi3WFeDiPeUKa0yXb6t1ob38sTRKCrSKBGsXCef_hWH4kNeXJDXM_I-QHrmwMuKgHWhpK/s640/IMG_0430.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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After drilling both arm post holes I turned the bamboo style arm posts on the lathe. I do this before reaming because I want to assign and fit an arm post to a particular mortise during the reaming process. The arm post will be marked for its particular mortise and that is where it will reside for the remainder of its days.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNpGmFXmKPNzAsWyNQ6HCqvqJyjjRExzEfYq9JElLUSVqBC8_eikOzZzbf4dGbgUdqUXfzLF3V77jfhVMP64i5vUudKoMz3bM4UljQXWmWPrHGBLCwzXhFh5KGtpxCoJDpC7azGLIPtNzI/s1600/IMG_0426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNpGmFXmKPNzAsWyNQ6HCqvqJyjjRExzEfYq9JElLUSVqBC8_eikOzZzbf4dGbgUdqUXfzLF3V77jfhVMP64i5vUudKoMz3bM4UljQXWmWPrHGBLCwzXhFh5KGtpxCoJDpC7azGLIPtNzI/s640/IMG_0426.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bamboo Style Arm Post</td></tr>
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Next I ream the arm post holes and make them into tapered mortises. As when drilling, I use a square, bevel square and mirror when reaming. My reamer has a 6 degree included angle, therefore I set the angle to 14 degrees, three degrees less than the 17 degrees used to drill the holes. I align the blade of the square with the sightline and compare the top tip of the reamer with the blade of the square. If it lines up with the edge of the blade, I'm spot on. If the tip is left I must take more off the right side of the mortise and vise versa if the tip is right.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6rDMS_3KkdRyM7ds1JWXhB8x7FhUarXJ3bkg7hwdyB5K7OE2kp_oBqi94QVAi3aIpiCpry4oMNTzF39B1bY-WCFevnZUWeBIph6lDU1-ifuerve3uTtu-THzqED-9_y7BrKWY6N6Fgyr/s1600/IMG_0433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6rDMS_3KkdRyM7ds1JWXhB8x7FhUarXJ3bkg7hwdyB5K7OE2kp_oBqi94QVAi3aIpiCpry4oMNTzF39B1bY-WCFevnZUWeBIph6lDU1-ifuerve3uTtu-THzqED-9_y7BrKWY6N6Fgyr/s640/IMG_0433.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reamer is in line with the sightline</td></tr>
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Next I brought the bevel square up to the reamer and observed the gap between the blade of the bevel square and the tapered surface of the reamer. If the gap is the same up and down the reamer, I'm spot on. If the gap is larger at the top I need to take more off the mortise toward the square and vise versa if the gap is larger at the bottom.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpve8J7K9CjR3MC9BmT19W9O_L0upQ0h2hFfjth90LTubzoAXyO93KhyVSVGK_rpvgLHHgHAlWtIHSc6sfu8soFMD4pHsX5KjkYMWQkXohAHW_TAv6VRv-Md46QONAZGrzaW-f2ck7hLU/s1600/IMG_0434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpve8J7K9CjR3MC9BmT19W9O_L0upQ0h2hFfjth90LTubzoAXyO93KhyVSVGK_rpvgLHHgHAlWtIHSc6sfu8soFMD4pHsX5KjkYMWQkXohAHW_TAv6VRv-Md46QONAZGrzaW-f2ck7hLU/s640/IMG_0434.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reamer is at the correct angle</td></tr>
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So after reaming both mortises to the indicated correct angles one might think that it is a completed task. Oh contraire! What I have neglected to explain is that I actually don't ream the mortises to their final depth until after I check to see that both arm posts are in the same plane. I feel this is one of the most critical stages of building an armchair. If the arm posts are not in the same plane it will make it hard to get the arm to sit correctly at a later stage in the process.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWlvGzCZ_w0eU6vwy-NdBtLAlSBClrBQK6JOu8-lJ8N_2ePP8AuVRZflnt6z3PnMMheO0_ha_rWR-iC_PaH_aimxBTvlEY0GgoMGsFACt_WMlfxNNKjuc4V4cOpKgtEiR8-tKofxH1If2/s1600/IMG_0431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWlvGzCZ_w0eU6vwy-NdBtLAlSBClrBQK6JOu8-lJ8N_2ePP8AuVRZflnt6z3PnMMheO0_ha_rWR-iC_PaH_aimxBTvlEY0GgoMGsFACt_WMlfxNNKjuc4V4cOpKgtEiR8-tKofxH1If2/s640/IMG_0431.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winding Sticks to check the plane of the arm posts<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">
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Even though everything appeared to be correct, a pair of winding sticks would let me know just how close or far off I was. At first check I was off a wee bit and it was close enough that a very minor adjustment, a half turn of the reamer to the left arm post mortise, was all it took to be nuts on.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjHtQNTWDacnjoKjL9QFD4xuLLkFKoKBzzOei-m0zzS_aXJ-MJm00MNfUaOsaeorHEu4NTlBlBog3xfFR_P3GaNzbkbadnDWHtQlIK6ffqOsvH-NTlsloTeLyzFWKts8qFZtvHUXqLyiy/s1600/IMG_0432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjHtQNTWDacnjoKjL9QFD4xuLLkFKoKBzzOei-m0zzS_aXJ-MJm00MNfUaOsaeorHEu4NTlBlBog3xfFR_P3GaNzbkbadnDWHtQlIK6ffqOsvH-NTlsloTeLyzFWKts8qFZtvHUXqLyiy/s640/IMG_0432.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The gap at the left is ever so slightly larger than at the right. When the gap is even everything is copasetic.<br /></td></tr>
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Well that was all my foot could handle for the day. Next I will be turning the legs and stretchers for the undercarriage. All the while I will be attempting to recruit some help with getting that oak split. <br />
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~ Ray Schwanenberger<br />
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Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-36642154110027234422015-06-04T22:02:00.000-04:002015-06-04T22:02:41.774-04:00Pirated PlansI have just been made aware that Curtis Buchanan's plans for his Comb Back Windsor Chair have been pirated and put up <a href="http://chairplandiy.com/windsor-chair-plans/#" target="_blank">for sale on a scam website</a>. The scammer/thief who's name is Ted "Woody" McGrath has taken it upon himself to copy and sell Curtis's plans without his permission. When I went to the scam site it is clear that these are in fact Curtis's plans. Curtis's name and the copyright are clearly visible. You can call it scamming or piracy, but let us call it what it is; STEALING! I HATE A THIEF! <a href="http://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/woodwoorkweb-news/304-16-000-woodworking-plans-scams-and-spams.html" target="_blank">Apparently ole Woody has been called out before</a>.<br />
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Curtis has taken the time and put forth the effort and money, along with the help of others, to share his years of knowledge. He has done this with an absolutely wonderful series of free instructional videos on <a href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/" target="_blank">his web site</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/curtisbuchanan52/playlists" target="_blank">YouTube</a>. On his site Curtis has an <a href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html" target="_blank">online store</a> where he offers his plans and a video series on DVD.<br />
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Curtis is one of the most genuinely giving people I have ever met and had the pleasure to call my friend. I believe in and practice supporting people that are willing to freely give of themselves while trying to carve out a living in the world of woodworking. You may say, "Why would you pay for something if it is free online?" In no way can you have the experience that an in shop class with Curtis provides with an online video. For example, some of the conversations we had during our time together in his shop gave me insight into different ways to go about my chair building. There is no way to put a price on that and that is something I would never get from a video. <br />
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I will continue to support Curtis by buying his plans as they become available. Could I make a chair without them, yes! But to me that is not the point. If you feel as I do, I urge you to put the word out about this thief. If you ever considered taking a class to learn to build a Windsor Chair, do yourself a favor and contact Curtis. I guarantee he will not disappoint.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-79436900976652281272015-06-02T13:07:00.000-04:002015-06-02T13:07:22.900-04:00June Chair BuildIt is June 2nd and time to participate in the <a href="http://toolerable.blogspot.com/2015/04/june-chair-build-seat-blanks.html" target="_blank">June Chair Build</a> that has been promoted by Brian Eve. In case you are not familiar with our host allow me to give you a glimpse. Brian is a woodworker who is living in Munich Germany and the author of the blog <a href="http://toolerable.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Toolerable</a>. Brian arrived in Germany in the 1990's while he was in the US Army. Brian spent eight years in Bamberg Germany and a year deployed in Iraq. After Brian's discharge from the Army he moved with his wife to Munich, where he is employed as an Army civilian.<br />
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Brian started woodworking at the Army woodshop building furniture for his barracks room. Things like bookshelves, coffee table and blanket chest. When he arrived in Munich, space was at a premium and it appeared there was no room for a woodshop. Or was there? Brian figured if he used only hand tools he would be able to carve out 100 square feet of space in the basement storage area and have his shop. Check out this short video of his <a href="http://blog.lostartpress.com/2012/06/18/we-had-to-sleep-in-a-lake/" target="_blank">tiny workspace here</a>. When Brian has to use machinery he uses the machines at the <a href="https://www.dictum.com/en/workshops/workshop-locations/munich" target="_blank">Dictum GmbH shop</a> or the Army woodshop in Garmisch.<br />
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Brian says he especially likes building tools for the challenge and in the end you have a useful tool. Brian also likes blogging because it helps him to think through a project when he can't be in his shop. He also likes the camaraderie of the internet woodworking universe. Thank you Brian for sharing your story with us.<br />
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I will be making a series of post on the chair that I am building and the experiences along the way. I will be building, of course, a Windsor Chair. This will be a child's Sack Back Windsor. A while back a friend was soliciting donations to raise money for a mission trip to Africa. I donated a certificate for a child's Sack Back, this is the chair that I will be building.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHl9gQY2e2xEdVwR7u9rv9ro0mic9qC0RsNK9-L4JbMOwNN6WqWFu5PVUWAsVFsHal9EkwMF8lt9EBHL2X8jK0JyQIJR_u-vRn5CFulfVVm7IGPmPQvTTr15TB5dCwysO0ORVQigQwTuEj/s1600/IMG_0843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHl9gQY2e2xEdVwR7u9rv9ro0mic9qC0RsNK9-L4JbMOwNN6WqWFu5PVUWAsVFsHal9EkwMF8lt9EBHL2X8jK0JyQIJR_u-vRn5CFulfVVm7IGPmPQvTTr15TB5dCwysO0ORVQigQwTuEj/s400/IMG_0843.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My lovely chair model Chloe</td></tr>
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Unlike the chair in the photo above, I will be turning bamboo turnings for the undercarriage and the arm posts. These will be turned in maple. The spindles, arm and bow will be made from white oak, and the seat will be carved out of sugar pine.<br />
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The maple rounds have been drying for a year or two and should be quite stable. The sugar pine I purchased when <a href="http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/08/20/reminder-midwest-wood-sale-this-weekend/" target="_blank">Midwest Woodworking</a> in Cincinnati Ohio went out of business. I was told it had been drying for over 30 years, so it should be quite stable as well. The white oak is in the form of a large log that has been drying next to my house for a bit over a year. This gives me reason to pause. While I have used one section of the log to date the other unsplit section has been sitting longer than I would have liked. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLjNSmYvCNm5QWQULMig1KiDGS3wYdY0K4Z0SJYfgI9QXFGPep58IoBvXOYQh9i0E8RrDL9fhBb1ROYJH91zIJWtb_f5KLQVwXY2du7A2HnOh8mEpv4wMQF2l7RSRgoFrOp7tE292YWuZN/s1600/mw_attic_stacks_img_6117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLjNSmYvCNm5QWQULMig1KiDGS3wYdY0K4Z0SJYfgI9QXFGPep58IoBvXOYQh9i0E8RrDL9fhBb1ROYJH91zIJWtb_f5KLQVwXY2du7A2HnOh8mEpv4wMQF2l7RSRgoFrOp7tE292YWuZN/s400/mw_attic_stacks_img_6117.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Midwest Woodworking stacked wood</td></tr>
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After splitting the log open I will take a moisture reading and see where I stand. If the reading is below 25% I will be afforded the "opportunity" to experiment with soaking the rivings prior to shaping and bending the arm and bow. Pete Galbert addresses working with air-dried wood in his book<a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/chairmakers-notebook" target="_blank"> </a><i><a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/chairmakers-notebook" target="_blank">Chairmaker's Notebook</a> </i>on pages 146-147. If the moisture content is 25% or above I will make the parts without soaking them.<br />
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The only other thing/obstacle to slow me down is me. I had to have a procedure preformed on my Achilles Tendon yesterday morning and I am to take it easy for the next couple of weeks. While carving at the shavehorse fits the bill I'm not sure about splitting that big oak up. In light of this situation I will be doing things a bit out of order from my normal process.<br />
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For all that are joining in on the chair build good luck and straight grain to you all.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-85651118168025595052015-05-25T20:11:00.001-04:002015-05-25T20:11:54.355-04:00Chairmaker's Notebook - A Must HaveWhile I have been very busy with my daughters 1920's Bungalow Rehab, I have made time to read Peter Galbert's newly released book Chairmaker's Notebook. I'm not privy to a word that fully conveys my elation with this book. For now I will say OUTSTANDING! BEST EVER! I know that was two words.<br />
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Over the years in my attempt to learn everything I could about how to make Windsor Chairs, I have accumulated eight books about these chairs. Three were specifically "How To" books, that were a start but left me with more questions than answers. The other five books are fantastic references on Windsor Chairs, that may be the topic of a different post. The Chairmaker's Notebook is my ninth and by far the most complete book on the subject.</div>
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In addition to writing this wonderful book Pete drew every fantastic illustration. So what makes this, in my honest opinion, <i><b>"The Best How To Book On Making Windsor Chairs"</b></i>? It is the <u>details</u>. Pete explains in great detail why green wood is used to build these chairs. How following the grain when making the parts is what gives these chairs their strength. Also covered is the intricacies of bending wood and drying the wood. </div>
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Pete goes into even greater detail about the tools used in making Windsor Chairs. How they are to be used, sharpened, and also lets you know what modern day tools can be used in place of the more specific period chairmaking tools. Pete emphasizes practicing before setting out to make a component for the chair. Sage advice, take it from a guy who has needed the practice. </div>
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Then there are the details so eloquently and simply put forth on the assembly of the chair, and something that no other book, I have ever seen explain, is the finishing process. Wow, the time, money and frustration I could have saved. Then there are the <i>The Appendixes; </i>they cover how the much used sightlines are developed, how to build a shavehorse, and how to grind drill bits that make the process easier.</div>
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This high quality book published by the good people at <a href="http://lostartpress.com/" target="_blank">Lost Art Press</a>, leaves no stone unturned when it comes to every detail a person needs to start down the path of being a maker of Windsor Chairs. If I could have only one book, on how to build Windsor Chairs, this is the book. </div>
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As a side note, this book gives the reader everything needed to build two wonderful chairs however, nothing can match the experience of taking a class with a chairmaker of Pete's caliber. If you were to combine the knowledge gleaned from the pages of Chairmaker's Notebook with a chairmaking class, you would be light years ahead. Three people I would suggest taking a class from would be; Of course <a href="http://www.petergalbertchairmaker.com/" target="_blank">Peter Galbert</a> in Sterling, MA.; <a href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/" target="_blank">Curtis Buchanan</a> in Jonesborough, TN. I have found Curtis to be a fantastic teacher and an all around wonderful person.; Also, <a href="http://www.penningtonwindsorchairs.com/" target="_blank">Greg Pennington</a> in Hendersonville, TN. Pete and Greg are cut from the same mold as Curtis. Greg helped me greatly with my turning skills.</div>
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So if you have ever said to yourself, "I wish I could build a chair like that" wait no longer. Go get your copy of <a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/chairmakers-notebook" target="_blank">Chairmaker's Notebook</a> and enjoy the ride.</div>
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-87677607951639104962015-04-09T20:16:00.000-04:002015-04-09T20:16:23.507-04:00Where Have I Been Part 2As I noted nearly a year ago, along with a partner, I started a Radon Testing and Mitigation company. After many hard months it was apparent that there was not the need for another Radon company in our area. As Kenny Rogers advises (know when to hold em, know when to fold em), I decided to fold em and cut my losses. This along with the passing of my mother and the untimely passing of a nephew, I have been somewhat of a social recluse. <br />
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I have been keeping up with a few of my favorite blogs and watching the work of friends. I have begun to restore a 1920's bungalow that my eldest daughter purchased. That should keep me busy for a few months.<br />
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What I yearn to do is get back into my shop. Lost Art Press recently published Chairmaker's Notebook by Peter Galbert. For me, this was the most anticipated release since LAP opened shop. I have to tell you it was well worth the wait. If you have ever thought about building a Windsor Chair this is a must have book. Pete wrote and illustrated the entire book. His writing style make the intimidating process of building a chair seem very doable. Today I read a post on Brian Eve's blog, <a href="http://toolerable.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Toolerable</a> about him starting a chair build. He is encouraging others to join in with their own chair build starting in the month of June.<br />
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I have dried seat blanks in stock, dried maple rounds and my choice of two white oak and three ash logs, so why not. I'm in for a build in June. I too hope you will venture down this path and get a glimpse of what I have come to enjoy, building chairs.<br />
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Stay tuned for photos of the build and watch Brian's wonderful blog also.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-62144432708196345062014-05-27T13:45:00.000-04:002014-05-27T13:45:40.090-04:00Where Have I Been?It has been exactly 4 months to the day since my last post. How time flies when you are covered up with the daily workings of getting a business venture off the ground. I have been retired from my air traffic control career for a little over two years now. During that time I attempted to turn my passion for chairmaking, and woodworking in general, into a viable business. There are many pitfalls in trying to make a living as a "Professional Woodworker". The most difficult being, finding customers that are willing to pay what a handmade piece is worth. <br />
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Marc Spagnuolo AKA <i>The Wood Whisperer </i>wrote a wonderful article on this very subject. So I suggest that anyone considering going down this path go <a href="http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/why-i-dont-offer-woodworking-business-advice/?category_name=musings" target="_blank">here</a> and check it out. I will continue to pursue making my furniture and hopefully along the way be able to acquire a few more clients. I would encourage anyone to follow their dreams, and I will do the same.<br />
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So you ask where have I been. Since February of this year I have been partnered with another local businessman in getting a Radon Testing & Mitigation business off the ground. This has kept me from my shop, the blog, and most things related to working wood. Now that much of the preliminary work is done I am hopeful that I will be able to return to the shop, catch up on projects, and keep the blog up to date.<br />
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With that being said, I am going to the shop to figure out where to begin. <br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-43957173489714669362014-01-27T21:44:00.003-05:002014-01-27T21:46:13.240-05:00Shop Stool Build Off - The Conclusion<br />
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It is the day after the Shop Stool Build Off (SSBO) and what a great time it was. So many people working across the world on a single project, a new shop stool. One would think this would be a fairly simple thing to build. Many of us used this opportunity to push our talents to the next level.<br />
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At the center of my design is a seat that tilts 10 degrees forward to promote a more ergonomical sitting posture. The three legged design provides a solid base no matter how uneven the surface it sits upon. I chose contrasting colors for the stool. The seat is Ash and the legs and stretchers are Cherry.<br />
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I started Saturday morning laying out the seat on a piece of 8/4 Ash and then boring the mortises for the legs. This is where great concentration was required. The front legs raked (angle as seen from the side) 19 degrees and splayed (angle seen from the front/rear) 17 degrees as legs normally would. The single back leg is counterintuitive because of its 1 degree rake toward the front of the seat and 0 degree splay. This is what is needed to give the seat its 10 degree forward tilt.<br />
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After boring the mortises I moved onto sculpting the seat. This was my second workout for the day. The first was shoveling out the driveway and the pile of snow the plow left behind. There is a reason that Eastern White Pine (EWP) is used almost exclusively in the making of Windsor Chairs. Ash is hard! What was I thinking, there is a reason they make baseball bats out of Ash. <br />
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To change things up I moved onto turning the legs and stretchers. All was going well until the last leg. It was then that a hidden knot revealed itself. My fix was to fill the cavity with epoxy and continue turning. The leg came apart on the lathe. This meant a design change was in order. The only way to save the project was to shorten the legs resulting in a stool that is now 21 1/2" tall. <br />
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At this point it was late and I was hungry and a bit dejected at this unwelcome development. So I called it a night deciding to start fresh in the morning.<br />
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Sunday morning started with me referring back to my trigonometry tables. I had to determine the correct leg lengths to maintain my required 10 degree forward tilt of the seat. After I had determined the correct length of the legs I moved onto reaming the mortises to a 6 degree taper. In my opinion this is one of the most critical steps in the process. To have the undercarriage symmetrical I had to be spot on with my reaming. Here you can see the 1 degree forward rake of the rear leg. <br />
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In the picture below it appears there is one leg when in fact there are two. This indicates that the extra time and care taken during reaming has paid off.<br />
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Things at this point are looking symmetrical.<br />
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Next was to measure, turn and fit the stretchers. After that was the somewhat nerve racking glue up. First step is to glue up the undercarriage. If everything was done with care and great attention paid to the details the seat should slide on without much effort.<br />
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All that was needed was the usual slight pull on the tapered tenon leg tops and into the mortises they slid. Next was installing the wedges perpendicular to the grain of the seat.<br />
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After a couple of hours the glue had dried and the tenons and wedges were trimmed flush to the seat. I then scrapped and sanded the seat. All that was left was to apply the finish. First was a seal coat of dewaxed shellac. This was followed by two coats of an oil/varnish mix. After it had dried I rubbed it out with a gray nylon pad and applied one coat of General Finishes Polycrylic to give it the tough protection it will need.<br />
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I have to tell you this was a roller coaster of a ride. But once the stool was completed and sitting there it became evident that it was one heck of a good time. Like a roller coaster, I will quickly get in line to participate in another Build Off. Many thanks to Chris Wong of <a href="http://flairwoodworks.com/" target="_blank">Flair Woodworks</a> for putting on the SSBO. I hope I will see you at the next one, whatever it may be. <br />
~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-82435685305553628212014-01-24T09:58:00.000-05:002014-01-24T09:58:54.730-05:00Shop Stool Build Off - 2Tomorrow the Shop Stool Build Off (SSBO) begins. Chris of Flair Woodworks fame and creator of the event, has posted a list of participants in this weekends SSBO. You can see who is participating <a href="http://flairwoodworks.com/2014/01/23/shop-stool-build-off-participants/" target="_blank">here.</a> At this time I am still not sure if I will be able to participate. However, I have been preparing incase it all works out.<br />
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My influences for the stool, as I mentioned before, are from a design by Pete Galbert, Curtis Buchannan, and Galen Cranz, that Pete calls "The Perch". The Perch has the single leg in front and I am moving it to the back, ala Wharton Esherick. I happened across a photo of a three legged stool by Mr. Esherick and was captivated.<br />
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As my mind raced most of the night on different leg designs, I have decided to stay with what I know. That is the round, tapered through tenoned leg with stretchers. Now I am toying with a bit of a change to the stretchers but I may not have the time to be able to do what I call a "Wishbone Stretcher". That would require steam bending and there is just not enough time to get it to dry properly.<br />
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Another one of my influences for the build is Leonardo da Vinci and his Vitruvian Man. This all has to do with human proportions. I want to be able to adapt any stool for any person and use that individuals height to do so. Wow the brain synapses are firing now.<br />
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That being said I have a few more ergonomic details to work out for a person of my height at 6' 0".</div>
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I hope it all works out and I am able to be posting results tomorrow. Good luck to all.<br />
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~Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-35014463889818221412014-01-21T08:32:00.003-05:002014-01-21T11:08:27.544-05:00Shop Stool Build OffThis Saturday, January 25th, is the Shop Stool Build Off. What is this you ask? It is an event conceived by Canadian woodworker Chris Wong where woodworkers around the world are invited to build their best shop stool in a day, or weekend if Sunday is needed. The progress will be tracked via Twitter #SSBO, Google+, Facebook, etc. At the conclusion Chris will share pictures of all of the pieces on his blog. This sounds like a good time and the details can be seen on Chris's <a href="http://flairwoodworks.com/shop-stool-build-off/" target="_blank">web site</a>.<br />
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I will be building a stool in the Windsor style, of course. Though I must confess, it is not an original design, but that is the beauty of this event; It doesn't need to be. It is my addaptation of an ergonomic stool designed by Pete Galbert, Curtis Buchannan, and Galen Cranz, that Pete dubbed <a href="http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/2008/12/holiday-gift-for-you.html" target="_blank">"The Perch"</a>.<br />
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It is no secret that I have been experimenting with chairs for guitar players. The more I worked with my prototype the more design questions and challenges have been brought to the surface. I have been looking to solve some of these questions with a more simple stool for guitar players. With that being said, my plan is to make a dual purpose prototype "Studio/Shop Stool". I look forward to seeing all the stools made during the event, and hope you too will be participating. </div>
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-26793265692352568582014-01-17T14:54:00.000-05:002014-01-17T15:22:24.663-05:00Drawknife Rehab - The ConclusionIt has taken a bit longer than expected, as usual, to complete the rehab. However, after a few minor bumps in the road, it is done! In the last episode I left off needing to hone an edge on the newly ground bevel. So with great anticipation I went to the drawer that holds my new Galbert Drawsharp. Are you are asking yourself; "What is this new fangled contraption of which he speaks"?<br />
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It is a wonderful tool for sharpening/honing drawknives. It is the brain child of Chairmaker, instructor, raiser of goats and all around nice guy, Peter Galbert in collaboration with tool maker, artisan and all around nice guy Jamel Abraham of Benchcrafted. Ok enough of the Bromance. Check out the Drawsharp <a href="http://www.chairnotes.blogspot.com/2013/10/buy-your-drawsharp.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Following the instructions I set the Drawsharp to hone the newly ground edge. I started by making several passes with the diamond abrasive on the beveled edge until a burr was turned along the entire edge. I then flipped the drawknife over and honed the back turning the burr back to the bevel side. This left me with an even scratch pattern along both sides of the edge.<br />
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When using the Drawsharp you hold the drawknife as though it were a fiddle and move it over the blade. Next, I turned the pads to the sandpaper sides and continued to turn the burr from bevel to back and back to bevel using a diminishing number of strokes until the burr had disappeared.<br />
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I have heard it said many a time, if a drawknife can cut Eastern White Pine end grain and leave it silky smooth, it is truly sharp. Well, I am short on EWP. However, I have a plenty of Sugar Pine. Sugar Pine is a bit harder and more dense than EWP, but only slightly. So without any handles I put the edge to the pine. Not the results I was hoping for.<br />
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As you can see the cut bore evidence of fine nicks in the edge. I retrieved my jewelers loop to closely inspect the edge. As I feared and suspected, the pitting on the back was not going to allow me to produce a keen edge. <br />
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This meant one of two things, either scrap the project here and now or attempt to remove the pitting from the back. I don't know about you, but at times like these I hear voices; in an English accent I hear "What the bloody hell, get to work". It might be a dead relative? So it was, I took a file and worked the back of the drawknife, taking care to keep it as flat as humanly possible. After removing about 1/4" to 3/8" of the pitting back from the edge I put the drawknife to a series of water stones stopping at 8000 grit.<br />
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I repeated the honing process with the drawsharp and the final results were this.<br />
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As you can see there is still evidence of a tiny nick caused by the pitting. I looked with the loop again and found it to be close to the end of the blade. It was a go for the handles. I thought about using paduck or purple heart but decided on good old cherry. Why? J.W. Mix & Co. was the maker of the drawknife and my research revealed the company was in New Haven, CT. I felt it was only fitting to use a beautiful American hardwood on this old American drawknife. I remembered my brother-in-law giving me some old cherry sticks that he salvaged out of a 19th century home, so I went digging. <br />
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This was my step drilling gauge for each handle and the handle pattern. Each handle needed to be step drilled to accommodate the handle tangs that transition from rectilinear to round.<br />
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Now let it be known far and wide, I am not a woodturner. I would someday like to be very proficient, that being said, this process took me probably three times as long as someone who knows what the heck they are doing would have taken. Whew, that felt good to get that off my chest. First I roughed out the cylinders then I step drilled each one.<br />
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Next I put the blanks between centers and began shaping the handles. This process was much like turning legs for chairs, only smaller. I was feeling my oats and thought I would use a skew chisel to give it that extra nice touch.<br />
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As you can see, I was humbled and put the skew away for yet another day.<br />
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Here are the finished handles drying. The three dark rings were scribed with a skew and then burnt in with an old guitar G-String. The finish is shellac put on while spinning on the lathe, then burnished with shavings. After that, I wiped on several coats of an oil varnish mix. The only thing left was to put the handles on the drawknife.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6iLiiTQ2dxN1yrYrQ-wS51mOWukJgXDRfVbgkEYgFdcMGNo0cuPsGj9xD9HutBs-sWKhCqJsgTwXy3_BFkML5pRktyjuFvcpS0FoOnn12FyA8vbzLiJCCySC-BB0mdGd5IaM49OcobJD/s1600/IMG_0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6iLiiTQ2dxN1yrYrQ-wS51mOWukJgXDRfVbgkEYgFdcMGNo0cuPsGj9xD9HutBs-sWKhCqJsgTwXy3_BFkML5pRktyjuFvcpS0FoOnn12FyA8vbzLiJCCySC-BB0mdGd5IaM49OcobJD/s1600/IMG_0346.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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First I annealed the tang ends by heating them to a cherry red and letting them cool. This made it easy to peen them over. Thanks for the heads up Pete. I really, really like the look of natural cherry and black together so I decided to paint the ferrule's and caps black.<br />
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A drawknife that could have easily been destined to be on the wall at a Cracker Barrel will now be residing on the wall above my bench waiting to be put into service. <br />
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With every project I try to learn something. I take away from this project; The importance of finding edge tools that are free of or have very little pitting; That some tools are worth the extra effort to make them usable again; That investing my money in good tools made by good people is worth 10 fold the expenditure; That investing some time in learning to use a skew chisel would be a wise investment.<br />
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I hope that I have been able to provide you with some good information. Information that will encourage you to get into your shop and try something new. This is how we learn, by pushing ourselves outside of our comfort zone. So let's go to the shop and do something new and exciting, and always be safe.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-3405771845876595632014-01-05T11:53:00.002-05:002014-01-05T12:04:47.693-05:00Drawknife Rehab - Part 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmtk0YMLdJBpT8XRNSJvsXqKge7Cr-xrtfKfM56tFHEn0vpzcR6pg4zXJZE3fsZzh_nNqELFpDK3IKRalwOOy506AuECjKujcLh3EuLgmzZExY_wzaten4tZ3WY8ya8W2fcaHY-gOAs27/s1600/IMG_0303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmtk0YMLdJBpT8XRNSJvsXqKge7Cr-xrtfKfM56tFHEn0vpzcR6pg4zXJZE3fsZzh_nNqELFpDK3IKRalwOOy506AuECjKujcLh3EuLgmzZExY_wzaten4tZ3WY8ya8W2fcaHY-gOAs27/s400/IMG_0303.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Yesterday my day began a little before sunrise with a trip to my good friend Ralph's farm in the flat lands of eastern Indiana to pick up a little hard maple. It was a beautiful drive with the fresh snow on everything and as the sun came up revealing a crystal blue sky. After I got a close look at the pieces I think I may have some figured maple on my hands. These are not ideal for leg blanks for my windsor chairs but I think I will be able to use them for another project. That of course will be another post.<br />
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After an equally beautiful trip home I parked the truck and headed into the shop. It was time to get back to rehabbing my old drawknife. This next step, grinding the blade to remove the chip/nick, was the one that was going to determine if this was the end of the trail for this project or if I was going to be able to continue and make this a usable drawknife.<br />
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I had several concerns moving forward. The one concern that loomed greatly in the back of my mind was a matter I had never considered or heard of, until Paul Frederick brought it to my attention in a comment. Hydrogen Embrittlement. My understanding of hydrogen embrittlement is that atoms of hydrogen are absorbed into the steels atomic lattice like structure which causes the steel to become brittle. Hydrogen embrittlement may have occurred to some extent because I removed the rust using electrolysis.<br />
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Michael Olsen is an electrical engineer that read the post and left this comment: <i>"I would be skeptical of embrittlement considering the relatively low energy levels used. Most such brittleness occurs in either high voltage electrolysis of thicker material or combined low voltage and thin sheeting".</i> Michael gave a very interesting and more in depth explanation in his comment that helped put my mind at ease.<br />
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Further research revealed that the passage of time, letting the piece sit for an undetermined amount of time, or baking the piece at 200 degrees Celsius (392 degrees F) for four hours, would cause the hydrogen to be dislodged from the steel. Since the knife sat over the Holidays it was off to the grinder.<br />
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In the picture above is the jig I use for grinding drawknives. This jig is one that came from the wonderful mind of <a href="http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Pete Galbert</a>. If you are interested in building this wonderful jig and learn how to use it check it out <a href="http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/2011/04/micro-adjustable-grinding-jig.html" target="_blank">here.</a> There is no need for me to try to explain what Pete has already done so well. The first thing I had to do was to prep the spine of the drawknife. I filed, sanded, and waxed the spine to ensure that it would slide easily over the hardened steel pins of the jig. As a side note, since I do not have a designated spot in my small shop to work on metal, I take great care to shop vac, often, the metal filings so that I do not discover them in a future woodworking project.<br />
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After preparing the spine I adjusted the jig so that the wheel would be grinding in the middle of the existing bevel. I measured this to be roughly 25 degrees. I used no real forward pressure on the knife just enough to keep it in contact with the stone without jumping, and moved the knife back and forth across the spinning stone. I do use a slow speed grinder. While I was making progress it was taking quite a long time to get down to the bottom of the chip/nick. So I decided to employ a method I have used on nicked plane irons in the past.<br />
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I used a set of dividers to gauge the distance from the spine to just at the bottom of the nick and scribed a line onto the newly ground bevel. I then marked the metal that was to be removed with a red Sharpie. Here is where the process goes against everything that seems correct. I laid the flat back of the knife onto a grinder table and ground the edge of the knife to the scribe mark. Zip-A-Dee-Do-Dah and Bob's your uncle, no more chip/nick. Now what remained was a relatively large flat where a sharp edge is supposed to be. I highlighted it in red so it would be easier to see. Now it was back to grinding using the grinding jig.<br />
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With a little more time I was able to grind a nice even bevel across the knife and it is now ready for honing. I was so excited to be able to reach this point of the restoration without the drawknife cracking due to possible hydrogen embrittlement and to discover, at least at this point, it appears the pitting that remains is not deep enough to prevent me from obtaining a good edge. However, this will only be fully realized when I finish honing. I was so pumped up over the results I broke out all of my old drawknives that needed to have the bevels reground and went to work. In a matter of thirty minutes I was done.<br />
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The next thing that needed to be done was to make the angle of the handle tangs as close as possible to the same in a position that was comfortable to me. It turned out to be just about 83 degrees. I was able to accomplish this very easily without heating the steel. I clamped the tang up to the bend in my leg vise and ever so gently moved the blade to obtain the desired angle. I then ensured that the tangs were in line with the back of the blade.<br />
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What determines if a drawknife is bevel up or bevel down? If the handles are in line with the back of the spine it is a bevel down knife. When in use with the bevel down the hands and wrists will be comfortably in a downward position. It is not very comfortable, nor is it recommended, to use a drawknife with the wrists cocked upward in an unnatural position. By laying the knife on its back and then on its bevel, it readily becomes evident as to which way the drawknife is to be used.<br />
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In the next exciting episode of <i><b>Drawknife Rehab,</b></i> I will be posting on honing the edge, starring the amazing <i><a href="http://www.chairnotes.blogspot.com/search/label/Drawsharp" target="_blank">Galbert Drawsharp</a>.</i> If all goes as planned, I will be including the turning and installation of the handles. So stay tuned for the next exciting episode of <i style="font-weight: bold;">Drawknife Rehab.</i> Yeah I know, my bubble is a bit off.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-81317526928351434092013-12-19T17:36:00.002-05:002014-01-05T11:54:26.362-05:00Drawknife Rehab - Part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This will be a much shorter post today. I mentioned in the last post that I put the ferrells and caps into 5% acidity vinegar to finish removing the rust on the inside surfaces. Within minutes there were bubbles forming on the pieces and the rust particles were floating in the vinegar within an hour. These four pieces remained in the vinegar for 30 hours. I then rinsed them in tap water, filled the jar with water and added baking soda to it. As for how much, well I used a very old scientific method, Gravity! When a clump fell out of the box that was the amount used. This is just to neutralize any remaining acid from the vinegar.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First 15 minutes in vinegar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After 30 hours in vinegar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In solution of water and baking soda</td></tr>
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After drying the pieces off I wire brushed inside and out and coated with protective oil. Hint: a 1/2" plumbers brush was just the ticket for doing the inside of the ferrells.<br />
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I also measured the flair of the tangs on the drawknife today and determined I will need to make some adjustments to them before replacing the handles. The tangs for the most part are in line with the blade making it a drawknife best used as a bevel down knife. Just what I want.<br />
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I will check the angles on one of my favorite drawknives and most likely adjust this knife to match as closely as possible. My instinct tells me it should be fairly close to the 83.75 degrees pictured above.<br />
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The last post has had some great reader comments. I greatly appreciate that you take the time to read my blog and even more so that you take the time and effort to contribute with your comments. One concern brought to light by a reader was Hydrogen Embrittlement. There have been some wonderful contributions concerning this and they can be found in the last posts comments.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-1259155174319872652013-12-18T22:15:00.000-05:002014-01-05T11:54:41.843-05:00Drawknife Rehab - Part 2As luck would have it, just as I was making great progress on this project, I had to go out to work. I guess that is how it is when one is semi-retired. In an attempt to be as thorough as I can this will be a rather lengthy post.<br />
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Well I'm back and lets take up where I left off a few weeks ago. I searched the shop and house for the materials needed to remove the rust using electrolysis and the only thing I had was the baking soda. I purchased a plastic container to use as the electrolysis tank, 8' of 1/2" rebar to use as sacrificial steel, rebar tie wire to connect the rebar together and to tie to the drawknife so that it could be suspended in the tank, and the total cost was less than $12. I borrowed the battery charger from my neighbor Rusty (isn't that ironic).<br />
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First step was to wire the rebar together as evenly spaced around the tank as possible. All my research indicated that removing rust using electrolysis is a point to point process. So to avoid any shadowed or blind spots the drawknife needed to be surrounded by the sacrificial steel. The longer piece of rebar on the left is where I clamp the positive side of the battery charger making the rebar the anode.<br />
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Next I filled the tank with water and added 1 tablespoon of baking soda per gallon of water. Mix this thoroughly, stirring until the solution is clear. This is the alkaline solution needed. Some individuals recommended using sodium bicarbonate NaHCO3 (baking soda) while others recommended using sodium carbonate Na2CO3 (Arm & Hammer Super Wash). I am not a chemist and I know that there is a difference between the two, but I'm not sure exactly what the difference is in regards to removing rust using electrolysis. By the way, both camps results were the same, the rust was removed. So the deciding factor was, the baking soda was in the pantry. I then wired the drawknife to a piece of wood and submerged it in the tank. The drawknife will be the cathode once the negative cable of the battery charger is attached. <br />
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<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Take great care to ensure the drawknife or any other parts do not come into contact with the rebar! </span>Next, I attached the positive cable to the rebar and the negative cable of the battery charger to one of the wires around the drawknife. I made sure that both cable clamps were out of the water. Once I ensured that everything was as it should be I plugged it in. Almost immediately I saw a reaction take place. <b><span style="color: red;">Another word of caution: If for any reason you should have to move anything in the tank unplug the battery charger first!</span></b><br />
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After 32 hours I had to remove the drawknife from the tank. At that point in time it appeared that 99% of the red rust was removed from the drawknife. The ferrells and caps however still had a bit of rust remaining, especially on the inside of the ferrells. I rinsed off the drawknife, ferrells and caps while wire brushing them, then I coated them with a protective layer of oil.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is a good bit of pitting from the rust, hopefully it will take a good edge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red rust is removed and the black rust is stabilized and adhered to good metal.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Name stamped into the drawknife was preserved because electrolysis was used to remove the rust.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metal Protection from Felder, good stuff!</td></tr>
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The sludge that remained in the tank was gnarly looking. The rebar had collected the rust just like it was supposed to.<br />
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Earlier today I cleaned the protective coating off the caps and ferrells. I then placed them in a glass jar covering them with vinegar (5% acidity). I will remove them in the morning, rinse them with water, then put them back in the jar covering the pieces with a mixture of water and backing soda. I will leave them in this mixture for a few minutes to neutralize any remaining vinegar then wire brush them. Hopefully this will remove the remaining rust and I can apply the protective oil. <br />
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If I am unable to get a post made prior to Christmas my family and I would like to wish you a very Merry Christmas and a safe and prosperous New Year.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-62682631973016817912013-11-29T16:10:00.001-05:002014-01-05T11:55:02.189-05:00Drawknife Rehab - Part 1I hope that everyone had a very enjoyable and blessed Thanksgiving!<br />
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It has been all too long since I have taken the time to make a post, and for this I apologize. It seems life happens and some things have to take a back seat. I will be making every effort to be more consistent with my posts and hope that you find them interesting and of some use.<br />
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The other morning we opened the blinds to find 1 1/2" of the perfect snow. It was everywhere except on the concrete. There is something about fall and winter that make me want to be in the shop. After getting the shop back in order, I was looking over three of my older drawknives and decided it was time to do something with the ugly duckling of the lot (the knife on the far left). The handles are loose, the blade is rusted and even has a bit of a chunk out of the cutting edge. I thought this would be a good knife to use in my first attempt at a total rehab. Then I thought it might be interesting to share this <i><b>unrehearsed attempt</b></i> at making this a usable tool.<br />
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The handles on the middle knife are my preferred shape of handle. Oddly enough one of these handles measures an 1 1/2" in the bulb while the other measures 1 3/8". I find the smaller of the two fit very comfortably in my hand and I don't experience hand cramps or fatigue like I do with the handles on my subject knife. That made the decision to remove the handles easy.<br />
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I have an old orange plastic handled chisel I keep around the shop for jobs such as this. Knowing the handle tang extends the entire length of the handle I did not want to damage the edge of one of my good chisels, so broke out ole orange. This is what I discovered. The hole is step drilled to accommodate the transition from a tang that resembles an over grown cut nail, to round.<br />
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The fit of the ferrel and the cap were tight, as was the round portion of the handle tang. However, as you can see, the upper or larger portion of the step drilled hole was no where close to being tight. This brings some questions to mind (i.e. another rabbit hole to explore), but not at this time.<br />
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The next step is to remove the rust. After a little research I have decided to remove the rust by electrolysis. I decided to go down this rabbit hole in hopes of converting the black rust into a more stable state and removing the red rust. This is done by passing a low voltage DC electrical current through an alkaline solution or electrolyte. The rusted knife will be submerged into the solution acting as the cathode (negative) and the sacrificial steel will be the anode (positive). I found the site of a gentleman by the name of <a href="http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm" target="_blank">Andrew Westcott</a> that I found very enlightening on the subject.<br />
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I am now going in search of the materials needed to set up my electrolysis tank. I do hope I have most of it hanging around the shop, I do not want to have to deal with the Black Friday traffic. Stay tuned for Part 2.<br />
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~ Ray SchwanenbergerRay Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-8256920531844220352013-06-01T16:34:00.001-04:002013-06-01T16:34:23.754-04:00What Is This Tool Before Me<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCQCiyY8biQunM55X7qIqC8KA2kDtcdqAFqjHXElvPvJgJtxgpyyiQoz03UZ1SNhRIvqmEqlYveZUqO1wsavnzw0jHDnvI96ao2joSEVLT3mfL0RxJRE6M7lH2sjotT-4H41BbMRL15Yj/s640/blogger-image-131573826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCQCiyY8biQunM55X7qIqC8KA2kDtcdqAFqjHXElvPvJgJtxgpyyiQoz03UZ1SNhRIvqmEqlYveZUqO1wsavnzw0jHDnvI96ao2joSEVLT3mfL0RxJRE6M7lH2sjotT-4H41BbMRL15Yj/s640/blogger-image-131573826.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This was acquired by my brother-in-law Rick at a yard sale for $3. The seller claimed it to be a "scoop adze". </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This is a mystery to me! This tool exhibits the tell tale signs of being made by a blacksmith. It is about 12" long from the hammer face to the end of what the seller said is an adze. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If anyone knows what this is and has some historical data on it please let me know by posting a comment. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOVzNDqgTh4y758Ehhi-WAh3e-9Yuk6rb5_lotPmkc6wRTJrlBkWhWEmk8etBJMkI4DBLqQcdj5kJZhTwRxPQhbO6ygRRClDp2mM59ZlgFPH23lot3sivtaph2FylbzRqtW0KybbxMVWbb/s640/blogger-image--1578652305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOVzNDqgTh4y758Ehhi-WAh3e-9Yuk6rb5_lotPmkc6wRTJrlBkWhWEmk8etBJMkI4DBLqQcdj5kJZhTwRxPQhbO6ygRRClDp2mM59ZlgFPH23lot3sivtaph2FylbzRqtW0KybbxMVWbb/s640/blogger-image--1578652305.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMJLkJ2aXeP5guK_FgSxJhIhX3LcN50-2qxRpNp7j8NtWFrFt9_2wgWN4ikeGaL4id374z_NXiNkaA2Oie5T38my5pCr3HlSvnivdOKnP7KCr_K9vbW60t1HAAIL9sv10lIga92sBw04N/s640/blogger-image-878242417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMJLkJ2aXeP5guK_FgSxJhIhX3LcN50-2qxRpNp7j8NtWFrFt9_2wgWN4ikeGaL4id374z_NXiNkaA2Oie5T38my5pCr3HlSvnivdOKnP7KCr_K9vbW60t1HAAIL9sv10lIga92sBw04N/s640/blogger-image-878242417.jpg"></a></div><br></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-8381217845658783342013-05-22T15:48:00.000-04:002013-05-22T15:48:24.953-04:00What in the Wide World of Sports Is A Goin' On Here?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Those of you who know me, know that I can be a bit of a practical joker. Well the last one bit me in the hind quarters. Suffice it to say that a crank call to an old friend and colleague resulted in a job offer that I could not refuse. So on May 6th I came out of retirement and went back to work, with a "very flexible" schedule.</div>
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In a previous post I mentioned I was able to get the dye stain on the king size bed before leaving town. After being gone for two weeks I returned to the shop to apply the brown mahogany stain. I applied said stain, allowed it to sit and then wipe off the excess, as per the instructions. Much to my dismay it looked nothing like the sample board made with the exact same dye and stain. It had a much redder appearance. See post title for the family friendly version of my reaction. I spent the next 2 1/2 hours with a maroon pad and water (water based stain) stripping off the newly applied stain. </div>
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It was upon the completion of the aforementioned stripping I swore (and I mean I swore) off all woodworking except for building chairs. It was obvious to my wonderful wife that I was in need of an intervention. She quickly appeared at the shop door with an icy cold Land Shark and talked me off the the headboard ledge. Two days later, an appropriate cooling off period and time to allow everything to dry completely, I was ready to attack staining again.</div>
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This time I stained a small area and immediately wiped off the excess. The results were so close to the sample I deemed it a success. After allowing the stain to dry for 24 hours, it has been quite humid here in Kentucky, I sealed it with wax free shellac. Later today or tomorrow, I will go over the entire piece with a very fine pad and apply a thin coat of satin poly. I did this with the sample board and the results were a semi-gloss sheen that Carol and I like.</div>
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I did say a few weeks back that the subjects of future posts might be a bit different. Working out of town quite a bit will keep me away from my shop more than I would like. After many a conversation with my brother-in-law Rick, I offered to help him finish setting up his shop in the evening after work. As a result, I will have access to a "Satellite Shop" while I am away from home. Rick is a very talented individual and artist who is not afraid to try anything. I look forward to working in Rick's shop. A hint of what the future may hold is pictured below. By the way this is the result of one of those conversations.</div>
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~ Ray Schwanenberger</div>
Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-39265537045531486892013-05-03T07:54:00.001-04:002013-05-03T07:56:40.621-04:00Method of WorkWhile I am away from the shop I have been thinking about the most efficient way of working when building case goods, beds, and things other than chairs. With Windsor chairs my process is pretty straight forward. Split the log, work the spindles to an octagon shape, shape the arm and bow (if building a Sack Back) and bend in the forms, then set to dry. Leg and stretcher billets are turned out of stock that was split and turned round to dry. While all parts dry, I carve the seat, and so on.<br />
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However, with things other than chairs, I usually put on paper my little sketch with some dimensions and into the shop I go. Man do I save time on the front end! I choose my material and I begin. I get the framework of the piece built and then build the details in accordance to what the newly constructed frame work calls for. Sounds fairly easy and straight forward does it not? Suffice it to say, things are not as they seem in my somewhat wonky mind.<br />
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With this method, I end up doing so many different machine set-ups it is unbelievable. As you can imagine this can result in minuscule discrepancies in measurement accuracy, which in turn leads to woodworker frustration, and results in me writing this blog post.<br />
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I have sought professional help for this malady and here is the advice I have received, as I heard it. Start with as accurate of a drawing as possible. Time to learn Sketch-Up! Develop a cut list, to prove the piece can be built and to purchase material. Take time and think about how to efficiently break down the material with minimal machine set-ups. THEN begin building! Build the carcass, dispose of the cut list, and finish with the remaining parts. <br />
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I hope I understand the advice I have been given but more importantly I must fight the urge to skip the prep work. I wonder if there is a support group out there? <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeFtSbM5JQiKxT-b4rlRNbLtA8dGlFApCexklXD-pNUL13DDHCNclQ-NbG2dhhUFqcjYqmlZLTcJruqzI4N6kkREHfiVAFaKRTSbj3lLtFco7azexDaDElkFI6xkMV2GWTznOa4F7Te4Qr/s640/blogger-image-1985359166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeFtSbM5JQiKxT-b4rlRNbLtA8dGlFApCexklXD-pNUL13DDHCNclQ-NbG2dhhUFqcjYqmlZLTcJruqzI4N6kkREHfiVAFaKRTSbj3lLtFco7azexDaDElkFI6xkMV2GWTznOa4F7Te4Qr/s640/blogger-image-1985359166.jpg" /></a></div>Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7603448224486440261.post-35187642139777484342013-05-02T11:23:00.001-04:002013-05-02T11:34:56.971-04:00A Great Cause and Working At New Heights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Allow me tell you about a very good thing I was
made aware of the other day. It is a project being put together by
woodworker and blogger Sam Cappo. Sam is putting together a user set of
tools, building a tool chest and then giving it all away to a deserving
woodworker. If you have any extra tools, please consider donating.
To view a list of sought after tools and all</span> the details of
this project go to Sam's blog,<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><a href="http://planedetails.com/?p=277" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2585b2; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;">PlaneDetails.com</span></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSV7uyyL6wxDhEl8sYweHtoXU3X2iJQC8E0Over4PVk7WrBUU4plNcEkr7Bp06TGyC0vYDSKaE6BixJ5ZqvGevN00cv5ZEwJNPpGZct6nQog2dLB2IV2xFunjZ084zlGqke4MnLLfLOfw/s1600/ladder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; line-height: 1.4em; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSV7uyyL6wxDhEl8sYweHtoXU3X2iJQC8E0Over4PVk7WrBUU4plNcEkr7Bp06TGyC0vYDSKaE6BixJ5ZqvGevN00cv5ZEwJNPpGZct6nQog2dLB2IV2xFunjZ084zlGqke4MnLLfLOfw/s1600/ladder.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yes this is a first, building furniture from a ladder. I needed to let in the bed rail hardware and this was the easiest way to accomplish said task. These rails are 82 1/2" long and there was just no other good way, that I could think of, to balance my palm router. Thank goodness it is hidden.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Because the first coat of the stain is a water based dye stain and I had done some sanding, I needed to raise the grain prior to dying/staining. After the wood had dried I discovered these little spots. They looked like rust spots. I can only assume they are the result of water mixing with some type of mineral in the wood.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After I knocked the fuzz off with 320 grit paper they disappeared, and did not reappear with the first coat of dye stain.</span></div>
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Here is a look after the first coat. I used General Finishes Light Brown Dye Stain for the first coat. I will follow that with GF Brown Mahogany pigment stain. This will obscure the grain to some degree but it will allow me to even out the color and hide some of the mineral stains that are within the wood.<br />
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Due to my schedule it will be a couple of weeks before I will be able to apply the second coat and top coat to finish this project. Before I move this monster into our bedroom I will get some studio pics taken of it along with the Continuous Arm Windsor.<br />
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My next project and blog subject is going to be a bit different so stay tuned.<br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent;">~ Ray Schwanenberger</span></div>
Ray Schwanenbergerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15044622377753605626noreply@blogger.com4