Allow me to apologize for this will be a post a bit longer than usual. When I last posted the upper portion of the chair was yet to be finished. I glued on hand blocks and shaped the handholds. Then I determined where to bore for the arm stumps. I bored the holes and then reamed the arm to fit to the arm stumps.
|Hand blocks and arm were jointed then glued together.|
|Based on measurements from the chair I determined where the arm stump holes were to be bored. That combined with the sightline gave the exact location.|
After reaming the stump holes comes the all important task of fitting the arm to the chair. The arm must lay just right for the remaining parts to fall into place. First I ream one hole and place the arm on the stump and rotate the arm toward the other arm stump. As you can see in the picture below the arm is too high so my reaming needs to be adjusted to lower the arm. Once I have the right side (as seen from the sitting position) reamed correctly, I repeat the process for the left arm stump hole.
|Arm is in need of more reaming.|
|The arm sits level as seen from the front.|
|The arm has a nice slope to the back.|
Next I lay out the arm holes. I favor the back side of the arm so that when the holes are bored they will not come out the front edge of the 3/4" thick arm. I then bore the 7/16" holes in the arm using a combination of the spindle holes played out on the spindle deck and the sight lines that are transferred to the seat.
First I bore the short spindle holes in the arm and then using those holes as a sighting guide I drill the spindle deck. I accomplish this by inserting a long 1/2" bit up through the arm hole and then center the bit on the corresponding hole marked on the spindle deck and drill it 1 1/8" deep. I do this with the four short spindles and then fit each spindle. I then mark the spindle so that it will be returned to the hole it was fitted to.
Next I remove the support dowel and bore the center spindle hole. I reinsert the support dowel and bore the remaining holes. I then follow the same procedure used for the short spindles on the long spindles. With the long spindles the holes in the arm are tapered very slightly during the fitting process. This ensures that the arm will register in a level attitude during the glue up.
After all the arm
|Arm and spindle deck after being bored.|
|Before boring the arm for the bow I check it against a bevel square at 41 degrees. If everything looks good I move forward.|
|Bow sitting in place after being fit into the arm. I think I got lucky on this one, it lined up on the first try.|
After that I do a dry fit of the entire upper portion of the chair. This gives me the opportunity to make any adjustments prior to the glue up. Which is the next and most nerve racking step for me in the entire process. So many glue joints and it always seems I could use another set of hands.
|This is after the glue up and I have already cleaned up the arm stumps and the short spindles.|
Next I painted the chair with a thinned coat of a lighter Costal Blue. This coat was thin enough that it allowed the darker base coat to show through, giving the chair a mottled look. After allowing the second coat to dry for four hours I rubbed the chair down with a gray (less abrasive) Scotch-Brite pad. I removed the dust and then applied one coat of a wipe on varnish.
I usually use a top coat like Danish oil on my full sized human chairs, but for a kids chair I have found it is better served with a varnish top coat. I was happy with the single coat of varnish so I have declared my June chair build completed. I will claim success when I see the smile of its new owner.
|Hopefully you can see the mottled blue look on the arm stump.|
|Here it is! A child's Sack Back Windsor, with bamboo turnings.|
Many thanks to Brian Eve for starting the June Chair Build. I am so glad that he picked the month of June since it is the longest month of the year...............
~ Ray Schwanenberger